2007 Felton Road Block 3 Pinot Noir

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on February 15, 2010 @ 6:11 pm

Valentines Day 2010, and what better way to enjoy it than a picnic assortment alongside the Kawarau River with a bottle of 2007 Felton Road Block 3 Pinot.

This wine reminded me of my first introduction to Pinot – and indeed Felton Road Pinot – some seven or eight years ago. I had long abstained from Pinot Noir, the red variety that I just wasn’t bourgeois enough to understand, but I gradually began to appreciate what this wine was all about. Delicate. Elegant. Complex. Perfumed. These were descriptors that I came to associate with Pinot Noir and that I continue to look for in this intriguing variety.

Is this the best, if not one of the best Pinot Noirs from New Zealand? Yes.

On opening – and I mean within two seconds of the screwcap having been cracked – I drowned my nose in heady perfume and in that opening minute, it’s quite delightful to follow the journey of the wine’s evolution as it sees oxygen and aeration for the first time since it was bottled; an exercise I’d recommend to all. Initially restrained and muted, but then blooming like an opening flower as waves of aromas begin to take shape.

Everything you’d expect from great Pinot is there – the concentrated berry/cherry fruit, a hint of sappiness, forest floor, herbs, spice and floral perfume – characters you might associate with any old Pinot, but somehow they recombine with x-factor and a fingerprint of place that tells you yes, this is amazing; awakening your senses and leaving you in a reverie where you really have to think to draw your nose away from the glass.

It’s a joyous wine to drink. The hallmarks of Central Otago are here, but the hallmarks that put the region on the map a decade ago, rather than the criticisms by pundits who have almost tended to mock the wines over the past couple years. Clean, juicy fruit, textural generosity (and I’m not talking ballsy Australian Shiraz textural generosity – just enough that maintains typicity without erring on thin territory), assertive aromatics and a long finish abundant with ripe, silky tannins.

As I’ve said before, winemaker Blair Walter’s hand in the winery becomes conspicuous through his absence of intervention, the wine a seamless marriage of fruit and oak that speaks volumes of viticulturist Gareth King’s tireless efforts in the vineyard. Kiwis are fast jumping on the tall poppy syndrome, following suit of their Australian neighbours under the illusion that it’s somehow trendy to criticise and cut down their most exalted wineries, but I’m here to say that these wines have never let me down, they continue to surprise, and I’m very, very happy to have a modest collection to enjoy in future years.

Alternative Varieties - The Tasting Notes

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on December 27, 2009 @ 2:27 pm

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Tasting Notes:

2009 Esk Valley Verdelho

Fruity nose of limes, grapefruit and tangelo with a hint of bell pepper. Medium bodied with a subtle texture, the palate of white peach and grapefruit is augmented by a zingy, juicy acidity, finishing fresh and dry. A thirst quencher, perfect for summer days, perfect for seafood.

 

2009 Coopers Creek The Groover Gruner Veltliner

Honeysuckle, ripe peach, white pepper, mandarin. Medium bodied, the palate is spicy, laden with stonefruit and a soft, gentle backbone of acidity frames the silken texture. Finishes dry and refreshing like a breathmint, with considerable length. Better than the ’08.

 

2008 Coopers Creek The Groover Gruner Veltliner

Honeysuckle, apricot, grapefruit, spice. Rich, medium to full bodied, broad palate, but blowsy and lacking focus. Hint of mint? Delicate fruit profile on palate. Weighty, slightly oily texture. Interesting for sure, and an introduction to the variety.

 

2008 Coopers Creek Little Rascal Arneis

Aromatic and complex; crushed sea shells, roast almonds, custard-apple, tangerine. Medium to full bodied, rich, lots of weight and tropical fruit flavours on the palate. Somehow it’s all restrained though and doesn’t become overbearing. Finishes long and dry.

 

2007 Coopers Creek Little Rascal Arneis

Very pale straw with a green tinge. Apricot kernel, pineapple, feijoa, mineral. It’s a beautifully balanced, gently textural and interesting wine. Lots of peachy flavours on the palate, with a streak of melon and nuttiness. Medium to full bodied, there is a delicacy to the wine that prevents it from being too rich or overbearing. Broad and augmented by a foundation of texture that resembles gossamer tannin, the acidity is present only in the  guise of juicy fruit. Finishes with fruit power and impact. A real surprise and a really classy wine – well done Coopers Creek.

 

2008 Dancing Water Tahou Scheurebe
The colour is a vibrant yellow, light-golden hue. The nose displays aromas of peach blossom, papaya, musk, honey and grapefruit. Supremely exotic, complex and delicious with a wonderful combination of fruit, floral perfume and sweetness. Made in an off-dry style, the wine is considerably textural and rich with a generous mouthfeel and layers of bright, tropical fruit. There are also hints of dried fig and apricot. A quirky Asian spice herbaceousness only adds to the wine’s individuality. With just enough acid to carry the finish, it’s a luxurious wine best enjoyed in its youth. Great as an aperitif, but a perfect match for any Asian dish with strong, authentic flavours (incredible with ginger prawns).

 

2007 Trinity Hill Tempranillo

Black cherry, black raspberry, star anise and a hint of toasty oak. Fruity, spicy, but also perfumed and floral. The palate is seamless, with layer upon layer of dark berry fruit, restrained by a dry structure of dusty, chewy tannins and youthful acidity. Screams out for dead animal or a banquet of carne tapas.

 

2008 Trinity Hill Tempranillo

Less of the unbridled black cherry power of the 2007, the 2008 is spicier, with notes of white pepper, mocha, raspberry and strawberry. Very primary on the palate; the wine a sum of parts waiting to integrate. Cherry/berry fruit, round, polished texture, a fine backbone of acidity and gently persistent tannins. A different beast to the ’07; more approachable and friendlier, the ’07 brawnier with more intensity.

 

2008 Herzog Zweigelt

Youthful crimson, burgundy colour tending purple when pouring. An arresting nose of black cherries, spices, flowers, raspberry. Highly perfumed. Medium bodied, it’s not that different to a nicely structured pinot, with perhaps more of a grainy texture. The winemaking is first rate; polished and seamless in the mouth, with an abundance of cherry fruit on the palate. Finishes with heightened cherry juiciness and long, ripe tannins. Lovely wine.

 

2004 Marsden Chambourcin

Interesting nose with a combination of primary berry fruit characters and age; mulberry, spiced plums, leather and chocolate raisins. The back label recommends a drinking window of 2-5 years and now, five (almost six) years on, there is still gas left in the tank. The structure of the wine is underpinned by a backbone of complementary acidity, with considerable fruit concentration and richness on the palate. It’s made in a rustic style; the mouthfeel edgy, some rough edges and dusty, sinewy tannins, but these imperfections only add to the wine’s charm and character. This was a fantastic match for a tomato based linguine marinara and is drinking at its peak now.

Gruner Veltliner - The Verdict

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on November 29, 2009 @ 2:27 pm

 

 File:Danube In The Wachau Valley.jpg

 

My first introduction to Gruner Veltliner, after hearing it mentioned in hushed whispers, was about three years ago when I was fortunate enough to sit down for an informal yet focused tasting with John Kavanagh and Tim Finn from Neudorf. We tasted about seven or eight Gruners, all from Austria, ranging in price from around $30 to upwards of $100. Of those seven or eight, only one piqued my curiosity, but certainly not enough that I was willing to part with $80 for the wine. In the main, the wines seemed dilute, broad and boring – lacking any identity or charm. It was a lack-lustre, surprisingly poor showing of a group of wines that were commanding premium prices.

 

So it’s quite interesting to see that Gruner has only increased in popularity. There are now plantings occurring throughout NZ, the wines can be readily purchased from mainstream retailers, and people seem to be genuinely excited about its potential. The Austrian industry, since the infamy of the glycol scandal in the 1980s, has come back with a vengeance it would seem.

Gruner Veltliner is Austria’s grape, a white variety good for food matching and available in a myriad of styles, largely dependent on the region where it’s grown. Peach and citrus are common with the variety, in addition to an inherent spice that can come across as pepper or even tobacco.

Friends were hosting a Gruner tasting at the Lazy Dog on Tuesday night, so a perfect opportunity to go along and have a fresh look at Gruner Veltliner. The wines served, representing the regions of the Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal respectively, were:

 

2007 Knoll Gruner Veltliner Federspiel

2007 FX Pichler Gruner Veltliner Frauenweingarten

2006 Prager Zwerithaler Gruner Veltliner Smaragd

2006 Prager Achleiten Gruner Veltliner Smaragd

 

2006 Salomon Undhof Von Stein Reserve Gruner Veltliner

 

2006 Hirsch Heiligenstein Gruner Veltliner

2006 Hirsch Lamm Gruner Veltliner

2006 Brundlmayer Langenloiser Berg-Vogelsang Gruner Veltliner

2006 Brundlmayer Alte Reben Gruner Veltliner

2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Kammerner Grub Gruner Veltliner

2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Kammerner Lamm Gruner Veltliner

 

Knoll, who has earned notoriety through his extravagant labels, has 15ha in various plots under vine. The Federspiel – or “Exploding Jesus” - had a really interesting nose; apricot, cinnamon, guava, mineral – assertive, with complexity and nice proportions. The palate entry is delicate, with subtle lemon/lime, pepper and minerality, finishing with a unique warmth as though “breathmint fresh”. There’s a fine texture and an elegant backbone of acidity. To me, this resembled what Gruner Veltliner – as a varietal wine with typicite – should be, from my limited experience.

 

Pichler, with 13ha of vineyards, has half planted to Gruner and the other to Riesling (with a smidge of Sauv Blanc). The Frauenweingarten opens with sulphides, mineral and white peach. Citrus palate and quite primary and youthful. It’s more elegant and less phenolic than the former, almost Riesling-like in structure, with a polished texture and juicy acidity. This was nice and easy to like.

 

Prager is run by Toni Bodenstein and, like the former two producers, rates very highly. An advocate of site and terroir, Bodenstein is a strong believer in wild fermentations. The two wines were quite different. The Zwerithaler spicy and slightly herbaceous, with a very spicy palate and considerable warmth. Rich, big and full-bodied, with candy notes on the finish. It failed to win me over. The Achleiten had a strongly pineapple nose with other tropical fruit; some orange blossom too. Rich, viscous texture, full of sweet, ripe stonefruit. Spicy, and again with that intriguing warmth on the finish. This was a bit flabby for me.

 

The lone example from Kremstal comes from Salomon Undhof, with his Von Stein Reserve sourced off old vines (50yrs plus) and steep, rocky terraces. A friend tasting by my side suggested a nose of fruit cake with brandy, and she was spot on. This was quirky, to say the least. Spearmint, spice, nutmeg, pine and peach too. Lighter bodied than the others, there was a defined core of intense, spiced-pear fruit. Glycerol texture, but still kept buoyant by delineated acidity. Finishes dry and fresh. Perhaps a caricature, but enjoyable nonetheless.

 

The final flight, from the Kamptal region, has an appellation requirement that wines be made from Gruner or Riesling and when labelled “Classic” have a minimum 12% alcohol and when labelled “Reserve” have a minimum 13% alcohol. Interesting.

 

The Heiligenstein from Hirsch comes from very old, desert sandstone and volcanic soils. Lots of citrus on the nose, with some sulphides. Immediately reminds me of Riesling with similarities to the Pichler. Primary, young, with residual sweetness and more palate citrus. Silky texture and complementary acid. This is the crowd pleaser and, for $29, represents unheard of value by Gruner standards, but where’s the Gruner?

 

Hirsch’s Lamm had a spicy, nutty nose with stonefruit. Glossy texture and quite broad in the mouth with just enough acid. Quite a ripe fruit profile. Ho-hum.

 

Under an organic regime, Brundlmayer trains most of his grapevines just above ground level to capitalise on soil heat. The Langenloiser has aromas of sweet tropical fruit, sea spray and spice. There is good structure; impressive linearity and a tad phenolic. Citrus on the palate, gentle acidity and a crisp, dry finish. Definitely a food wine.

 

The Alte Reben – old vines – is very perfumed; hard to pinpoint any one character. The palate is delicate, spicy, with an elegant, supple texture. It’s fresh and quite enjoyable, with a long, musk aftertaste. The best candidate for the cellar I’d say.

 

One of the oldest wineries in Austria, Schloss Gobelsburg has 35ha surrounding its castle. Aligning themselves with organic practices, the wines are aged in large oak casks made of wood sourced from Austrian forests. The Grub had a complex, tropical nose; ripe peach, guava, paw-paw, also with honey, nettle and beeswax. There’s very juicy fruit on the palate – quite sweet – with the nettle character prominent. Finishes quite gritty.

 

The final wine, Schloss Gobelsburg Kammerner Lamm, had a really powerful nose. Tropical fruit, flowers, cinnamon and spices. It’s very rich, with lots of fruit and a big texture. Big fruit, big texture, big body – the prop forward of Gruners. A sit-down, thinking wine.

 

Interesting tasting, looking at three of the major regions with an increase in the anticipated standard of quality from my previous experience. Having said that, I still feel that Gruner Veltliner is commanding a premium that isn’t entirely warranted. These are not cheap wines, at an average cost of $50, and when I would only consider buying 3 out of the 11, it makes it very hard for the punter who is diving in blind.

 

Jury’s out.

Summer Whites

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on October 24, 2009 @ 12:34 pm

Well, I’ll concede, it’s not quite summer yet, but we had some gorgeous weather - aside from the odd southerly gust - and in between flying kites, washing cars and throwing pinecones for the dogs, Drew, Karen, Siobhan and I kicked back with some tasty whites and delicious food.

Us

2005 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett
This is an interesting wine and not what I was expecting. It’s more like a classic kabinett, in terms of acidity, sweetness and structure. The nose is quite floral, already with a dose of kero and some lemon/lime characters. Inhale a little harder and the sweeter, riper peach notes begin to emerge, though they need some coaxing.

There’s more minerality on the palate, reinforced by lively, grippy acidity. The texture is subtle, as are the flavours; delicate and gentle, though still persistent. It’s a wine with layers of intrigue, heightened by knowledge of the vintage and producer. Drier than I was expecting, with more development too, but enjoyable nonetheless.

2007 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay
A wine that, at this young age, really benefits from a slightly warmer serving temperature. A creamy stonefruit nose that’s expressive and perfumed. An austere, youthful, precise structure of acidity penetrates the palate of nutty, toasty fruit. The textural qualities are just beginning to unfold, but this is a Chardonnay that needs lots more time. Tight, shy and a little awkward, this child on its first day of school has the pedigree to grow into a star performer for those who are patient.

2005 Marcel Deiss Riesling
A lovely honeysuckle, almost buttery nose with spice, subtle fresh and dried fruits and a hint of marzipan. The fruit spectrum on the palate has lots of juicy citrus and peach characters, supplemented by a viscous, generous texture without being cumbersome or too full-bodied. Finishes with yet more delicious juicyness, augmented by a veiled streak of acidity that beautifully complements the whole package. A lovely wine and absolutely exquisite with Drew’s pork-wrapped-pork-with-pork.

1988 Marc Bredif Vouvray
Exotic nose of melon, beeswax, apricot kernel, fresh hay and honey. Rich, voluminous texture, with lots of honey and caramel qualities. Lovely tropical fruit flavours on the palate. The acidity, whilst quite shy initially, builds to freshen and accentuate the finish. A wine that really wakes up the tastebuds, with a wonderful amalgam of fruit, texture, acidity and sweetness. I’ve tried several vintages of Bredif’s Vouvray from this decade and the ‘88 is by far my favourite - a classy and very enjoyable wine.

We also enjoyed a handful of other wines where I wasn’t so rigorous on notes. A 2001 SA Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese had a lovely undercurrent of acidity with some botrytis fruit notes and delectable sweetness. The 2007 Cristom Mt Jefferson Cuvee Pinot from Oregon showed well with Steve Doerner’s telltale tannins and structure - a beautiful wine, especially when given the context of the vintage. A Forrest “Bubbles for Beth” Sparkling Syrah Malbec gave the Aussies their fizzy red fix (great juice) and a 2000 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant red blend served blind had everyone confused (seamless, with flavour intensity and tactile tannins).

2007 Sacred Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on October 15, 2009 @ 10:52 am

The anticipated Hawkes Bay syrah nose of violets, white and black pepper and mulberry, but also a curious tomato leaf character as well. This leafiness develops further in the glass, alluding to syrah fruit picked at the earlier spectrum of its ripening window, reinforced by the lowish 13% alcohol.

In the mouth the acidity is prominent, with a palate of more white pepper and cherries. The texture is quite furry and fuzzy, as are the tannins, like a wine on a woollen jumper in dire need of some lint removal.

Despite verging on sourness, the acidity does give the palate some bounce and a lively juiciness to the fruit. It’s a pleasant wine, with a nice amalgam of sweet, savoury and sour, though don’t expect to be blown away. A wine that demands food and suited a roast lamb shoulder more than adequately.

2008 Dancing Water Scheurebe

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on October 7, 2009 @ 11:03 am

If you’re fanatics of German Riesling, like Clare and Ross from Dancing Water, it comes as no surprise that they may also share an affinity for other German grapes like Scheurebe. One of NZ’s first plantings of this uncommon variety - a Riesling cross - their inaugural release was very exciting for yours truly who also has a penchant for all things German.

The colour is a vibrant yellow, light-golden hue. The nose displays aromas of peach blossom, papaya, musk, honey and grapefruit. Supremely exotic, complex and delicious with a wonderful combination of fruit, floral perfume and sweetness.

Made in an off-dry style, the wine is considerably textural and rich with a generous mouthfeel and layers of bright, tropical fruit. There are also hints of dried fig and apricot. A quirky Asian spice herbaceousness only adds to the wine’s individuality.

With just enough acid to carry the finish, it’s a luxurious wine best enjoyed in its youth. Great as an aperitif, but a perfect match for any Asian dish with strong, authentic flavours (incredible with ginger prawns).

Soils, Geology - and Wine that Rocks

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on October 1, 2009 @ 12:42 pm

I wrote an article for Wine Technology magazine a couple of months ago that looked into the tangible effects of soil and geology on the quality of the fruit and resultant wine.

The piece itself was an ambitious undertaking and one where I barely scratched the surface, but it is a research area that I have a lot of interest in and I’ve attached the story below. The aim was to provide a brief overview of the topic, removing my romantic bias where possible, from a selection of sources that included professors, geologists and winemakers.

It’s worth mentioning here that, with the demise of NZ Grape Grower, Wine Technology is one of the few technical, industry-focused magazines left domestically and well worth getting hold of if you’re involved in the winegrowing sector (both winemaking and viticulture).

Soils, Geology - and Wine that Rocks

Grapegrowers like to preach about it, winemakers think they can taste it, and wine marketers write hyperbole about it, but is there really a tangible connection between the unseen, underground world of rocks and soil with the characteristics and qualities in wine?

There is considerable anecdotal and empirical evidence worldwide that would suggest a strong correlation between the type of soil grapevines grow in and the corresponding flavours, textures and aromatics of the wine, though little research has been conducted (partly due to the scope of such an undertaking) and there is certainly no scientific proof. Yet.

It’s the sort of topic that polarizes opinion and yes, before you start knowingly shaking your head, there is overlap to the terroir debate. There are Old World vignerons who swear on their ancestor’s graves that site specificity is real and you only have to walk their vineyards to actually see the change in soil type within identical blocks and then taste the difference in the wines they craft. On the flipside, a selection of wine scholars around the globe argue that soil plays only a secondary role, placing much more emphasis on climate and canopy management. They certainly lend no credence to the premise of geology having an impact, nor the notion of mineral characteristics or any such thing being derived from rocks.

Mike Weersing of Pyramid Valley Wines in the Waikari district of North Canterbury has had the privilege to work in vineyards and wineries all over the world. As a proponent of soils and geology having a strong influence on wine, Weersing has drawn on his experience to make some philosophical comparisons.

“Everything in the Old World from good producers is predicated to letting the soil speak, letting the soil show. In the New World, we say ‘yeh, but if you change winemaker, yield, viticulture, etc, the soil becomes such a small part that it’s probably meaningless’. I think that the single biggest difference – the reason why Europeans know and believe in the influence of soil – is based on their desire to express their sites. In the New World we want to express varietal character.”

“There are some very basic patterns; there are certain kinds of soil that have a consistent imprint on the wines grown from them. You can defy that imprint if you choose to. This is why most New World winemakers and grapegrowers think that soil has no impact; because it can be overridden. But that doesn’t mean it’s not there. The reason soil shows more precisely and convincingly in Europe is because that’s what they want to show.”

“I’ve worked around Europe with a lot of growers who emphasise terroir and who work deliberately to allow differences of site and soil to show in their wines. Patterns then emerge. From my time in the Mosel, Alsace and Burgundy, you see consistent soil types and consistent impacts on the soils grown from them. The European sensibility is that limestone provides structure – not just more tannin (though it can be), but a kind of density; a rigour that takes time to soften. There is absolute agreement that wines grown on limestone take longer to come round. They age better, or age longer, or require more time to show what they have. Pinot is a thin-skinned variety where the seed to skin ratio is tipped towards seed; because it makes light, perfumed wines, the extra structure that limestone confers is valuable.”

The idea of a winemaker’s will allowing the soil and geology to talk is an interesting one. This is the approach that Weersing takes, ensuring that his winemaking is invisible and transparent to fully expose the pure expression of place. It’s hard to ignore the fact that even though men like Weersing may comprise an overall minority, their products speak louder than words, with an uncannily high, exponential ratio for some of the most interesting wines in the world. Surely that must count for something; you think, you act, you are.

I spoke to Professor Robert White of the University of Melbourne; the author of “Soils for Fine Wines” and “Understanding Vineyard Soils”, hoping that he could shed some light on some of the more technical mechanics of what really goes on under the ground.

“We have the wine technical approach on one hand, and the wine marketing approach on the other. The more popular idea is that soils can influence wine character. There is quite a lot written by wine writers and vineyard managers/owners, but it’s usually not based on any scientific analysis; it’s usually based on their assessment of the flavour and aroma of the wines. I’m not an expert in that area – I don’t have very good sensory tasting and I’m no Master of Wine or anything like that – but people like Max Allen write quite confidently about the soil influence and the sense of place. I’ve been in correspondence with David Schildknecht, one of Robert Parker’s team, who certainly believes that there are soil influences on wine character in the Old World.”

“The reason why there isn’t a lot of progress lies with the abundance of variables and their interactions. If you want to look at a particular factor – like manganese, or calcium – you have to eliminate the other variables. This is easier said than done. I prefer, as a working hypothesis, that adverse mineral nutrition may give the wines different characters. I also support the French view that water in the soil – its rate of release and drainage – has a very important effect on the maturation of the grape and the character of the wine.”

This French view that White refers to has its roots with two French researchers some thirty years ago; Seguin and Pomerol, and more recently van Leeuwen. They concluded that the chemical properties of soil failed to demonstrate any links (though recent experiments show that soil chemistry can in fact trigger gene expression and hormonal responses in grapevines), but the physical properties – namely the structure and inherent hydrology of the soil – were determining factors across different vineyard sites. Countless papers over the past half century have been published that support this theory.

Thus, the geological influence is somewhat obscured and indirect because it acts through the soil forming process. David Farmer, a geologist who now lives in the Barossa Valley working in wine retail, presented some pragmatic arguments on the soil/geology dogma.

“The cornerstone of terroir is wrapped in soils, yet the connection is very vague and to date I have been unable to relate it back to geology. In all likelihood there is no connection to geology. I have wanted to believe otherwise but the science of my own observations has led me in the opposite direction.”

“What we can say is that the vine will produce finer grapes in this environment here, than that environment there. This relates to how the vine grows, so the soil texture and water access will play a role. You cannot say that if we have this bedrock with this soil we will get this taste (anywhere in the world). I actually think every vineyard area is unique. Some are so unique that the flavours make great wine.”

Farmer also added some sobering thoughts to the Old World and New World discussion,

“I find it helpful to imagine back to when vines were planted in new colonies with rootstocks from Europe. We planted in the regions where we settled and no thought was given to the climates or soils of the Old World. With today’s knowledge, if Australia was just being founded and we went rigidly with Old World data, some of our best regions would not be planted and we wouldn’t have Grange.”

“Now we can do the reverse and say if the New World was the Old World and we were now planting Europe for the first time, with all the knowledge we now have where would we go? In my belief it would be a long time before someone would suggest draining the cobbled marshes along the Gironde.”

“This reasoning is what makes me so enthralled by New Zealand. Before our eyes we have watched in the last 20 years as three or four world class areas have opened up. We have a tiny scrap of country deep down in a vast ocean making great wines. The soils are for the most part derived as glacial outwash and are young. There is no evidence of a geology influence and I argue much of it is an experiment - one step removed from hydroponic farming. The Gimblett Gravels are a very special case in point. For me, New Zealand explains very well the major reasons for complex grape flavours; major weather patterns and variable local patterns (such as heat traps like the Gimblett Gravels), rather than the soil.”

“So it’s how water is delivered to the plant that’s most important, and in some cases to do this in the most favourable way a slope is important (like in Burgundy). Not too much, not too little – it must be just right.”

The common theme here focuses on water within the soil profile; not only rates of water storage and drainage but how water moves – the effects of suction, gravity, porosity, permeability and so forth. So, does it then stand to reason that two soils with identical or very similar hydrology could have totally different mineral constituents and still engender wines of like characteristics? Whilst there is wide acceptance that hydrology is a determining factor, it’s but one piece of a larger puzzle affording only a glimpse of clarity for a question that may very well remain unanswered for the duration of our lives.

In closing, Weersing aptly summarizes the status quo and his desire to let sleeping dogs lie,

“There is no scientific proof that soil type or geology directly influences or impacts the way that a wine tastes or smells. In general when we talk about the influence that a soil has, we’re often talking about shape in the mouth, or architecture, or the ability of the wine to age. Nobody has made a massive effort to try and understand why a wine that grows on sandstone next to a wine that grows on limestone is so different (when the winemaking and viticulture are the same). We don’t know whether it’s vine physiology, whether its root physiology, whether it’s the chemical makeup of the soil, the physical structure of the soil, hydrology, or whatever. But it doesn’t really matter to me that we don’t understand why it happens – just because we don’t understand it, doesn’t mean that it doesn’t happen. It almost pleases me that there are still great mysteries in the world of wine.”

2003 Pauletts Trillians Sparkling Red

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on September 24, 2009 @ 4:52 pm

From the great Polish Hill River of the Clare Valley – better known as ground zero for some of Australia’s best Rieslings – comes a sparkling red blend of shiraz, cabernet and merlot.

Tawny red colour with very slight, fine effervescence. Nose of prune, fruitcake, cinnamon, mushroom, rhubarb, kirsch and blackberry. Rather than presenting as a sweet, overbearing blockbuster, these characters combine in a manner that indicates some finesse and complexity.

The mousse is super fine and she’s quite elegant in the mouth, subtly playful on the palate. There are chocolate nuances and a mixture of red and black berry fruits, augmented by a surprisingly velvet texture with pleasing tactile intensity. Finishes with more of the kirsch and freshening acidity.

Fans of Aussie sparkling reds will find a friend in this wine – more of a cheap Wednesday nighter than a Saturday night exposé – but delicious and just as enjoyable nonetheless.

Visit to the Gibbston Valley

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on February 23, 2009 @ 9:09 am

I had the chance to duck out to the Gibbston Valley yesterday on a rainy, miserable Sunday, to visit four wineries: The Winehouse (not really a winery but a cellar door for several wineries), Chard Farm, Gibbston Valley Wines and Peregrine. No official notes were taken, but here are my brief thoughts from the trip.

Starting at the Queenstown end of the Gibbston and working our way back, we first visited the Winehouse and Kitchen, a cellar door facility for Rock Ferry, Van Asch and Freefall wines that also doubles as a classy little restaurant. It’s located right next to the AJ Hackett Bungy and the views of the surrounding gorge are magnificent, as is the landscaping and atmosphere of the facility itself. Rock Ferry is a label owned by Tom Hutchinson and based out of Marlborough, though they do have a 20ha vineyard in Bendigo that they also make wine from (the Viognier is from this vineyard). Van Asch wines are those of Henry Van Asch who set up the bungy business with AJ Hackett and the Freefall Wines are his second tier brand.

We were permitted five wines to taste (for $7) and I went for the 2007 Rock Ferry Riesling, 2008(?) Van Asch Riesling, 2008 Rock Ferry Viognier, 2008 Van Asch Rose and the 2007 Van Asch Pinot Noir. A couple of Freefall Pinots were also snuck in, along with a 2006 Van Asch Pinot Noir. The Rock Ferry Riesling stood out and was in fact one of my favourite wines from the day of tasting. A drier style (nice to see), with lovely weight and texture but remaining lithe, crisp and clean. The Viognier follows a similar script and is certainly one to look out for. I preferred the 2006 Van Asch Pinot to the 2007; the latter just too young and closed.

After surviving the hairy drive that winds up the cliffside of the gorge to Chard Farm, we tasted through most of the range (no charge for tasting, though a gold coin donation is recommended if no purchase is made). I thought the bubbly (a special wine made for the 21st anniversary of Chard Farm wines) was terrific, a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, that was very yeasty with some definite development from a long maturation on lees. A surprising start, though the label may need some work… Tasting through the range of whites and reds, the Gewurz stood out as a classy example of the variety, with the Rose a little disappointing. The 2006 Viper and Tiger Pinot Noirs (the flagships) are classic Pinots of the vintage, markedly different to the textural and fleshy 2005s, boasting more structure for mine and savoury qualities as well. Neither better nor worse than their predecessors, just different wines that will appeal to different people.

At Gibbston Valley Wines our time was short-lived, with the option to pay for a tasting plate of four wines, but instead I politely asked for just a taste of the 2007 Le Fou Riesling and the cellar door staff kindly obliged. This was a wine I had been very eager to try after hearing a couple of rave reviews. Regrettably, it didn’t live up to my expectations. I’m not a big fan of the sherbert, bath-salt style aromatics of certain Rieslings, which pushed me away from the aromatics straight away. It’s made in the classic off-dry style, with some nicely tangy acidity, but again the flavours seem candied and sugar-coated, with the sugar and acidity failing to unite. All this, with some astringency and bitterness on the finish, and I wasn’t a big fan. I should qualify this by saying that my disagreeance was the result more of a stylistic clash than any obvious faults or quality issues with the wine.

Last stop was Peregrine that seemed the busiest of all the cellar doors visited. Like Chard Farm, there was no charge for tasting here (something I strongly believe in). We worked our way through the range, starting with two Rieslings (the drier one and the sweeter Rastasburn, where I preferred the former), followed by two Pinot Gris. We tried the standard Pinot Gris and the new “Karearea” Pinot Gris (the Maori equivalent of Peregrine), a top-end version made in a full, dry style utilizing premium fruit and this was a stellar Pinot Gris (a comment I don’t make lightly, given my usual cynicism of this variety); beautiful texture, weight and fruit intensity on the palate. I then chose to move straight into the Pinots, where we tried a 2005 Saddleback (the second tier range), 2007 Peregrine and 2007 Peregrine Karearea. The Saddleback seemed a little tired and over the hill (a slight surprise given the vivacity of the vintage), the 2007 Peregrine still in need of some extra bottle time (the 2006 is drinking superbly) and the Karearea was brilliant; this is the sort of wine that is positioned as a premium version (priced at $65) and it will hold its own against some of the best from the region. Gorgeous dark berry fruit aromatics - brooding a little - with textural layers and a seamless quality in the mouth, finishing with fine, sweet tannins.

So that wrapped up the little wine-tasting journey, with the first and last wines my picks of the day.

2008 Chard Farm Riesling

Filed under:Wine — posted by Max on February 20, 2009 @ 7:20 pm

One of my first 2008 Rieslings and if this wine is anything to go by, the outlook is very encouraging for this vintage.Chard Farm Riesling

The nose speaks of that quintessential Central Otago lime, with a fruit bowl of other citrus in tow and, interestingly, some spice and pear characters. Quite a delight to sniff. It’s a wine that’s worth warming up and not serving too cold, plus it seems to have developed (for the better) on the second night after a sleepover in the fridge.

The palate has also softened out, losing some of that slight spritzig and nervy, racy acidity. Look for this in the first glass and enjoy its evolution. The flavours on the palate don’t necessarily mirror the punch or intensity of the aromatics, though perhaps this is a blessing, allowing a more casual, broader and gentler experience in the mouth. Allowed to retain some residual sugar in the classic NZ off-dry style, the balance is exceptional and bodes well for the wine’s longevity.

Finishing long and cleansing - the acidity almost crunchy - it’s a delicious wine and has reinforced my thoughts on Chard Farm as a quiet over-achiever in the Riesling arena. Great Summer drinking.


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