Vinoculation

Well, I’ll concede, it’s not quite summer yet, but we had some gorgeous weather - aside from the odd southerly gust - and in between flying kites, washing cars and throwing pinecones for the dogs, Drew, Karen, Siobhan and I kicked back with some tasty whites and delicious food.

2005 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett
This is an interesting wine and not what I was expecting. It’s more like a classic kabinett, in terms of acidity, sweetness and structure. The nose is quite floral, already with a dose of kero and some lemon/lime characters. Inhale a little harder and the sweeter, riper peach notes begin to emerge, though they need some coaxing.

There’s more minerality on the palate, reinforced by lively, grippy acidity. The texture is subtle, as are the flavours; delicate and gentle, though still persistent. It’s a wine with layers of intrigue, heightened by knowledge of the vintage and producer. Drier than I was expecting, with more development too, but enjoyable nonetheless.

2007 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay
A wine that, at this young age, really benefits from a slightly warmer serving temperature. A creamy stonefruit nose that’s expressive and perfumed. An austere, youthful, precise structure of acidity penetrates the palate of nutty, toasty fruit. The textural qualities are just beginning to unfold, but this is a Chardonnay that needs lots more time. Tight, shy and a little awkward, this child on its first day of school has the pedigree to grow into a star performer for those who are patient.

2005 Marcel Deiss Riesling
A lovely honeysuckle, almost buttery nose with spice, subtle fresh and dried fruits and a hint of marzipan. The fruit spectrum on the palate has lots of juicy citrus and peach characters, supplemented by a viscous, generous texture without being cumbersome or too full-bodied. Finishes with yet more delicious juicyness, augmented by a veiled streak of acidity that beautifully complements the whole package. A lovely wine and absolutely exquisite with Drew’s pork-wrapped-pork-with-pork.

1988 Marc Bredif Vouvray
Exotic nose of melon, beeswax, apricot kernel, fresh hay and honey. Rich, voluminous texture, with lots of honey and caramel qualities. Lovely tropical fruit flavours on the palate. The acidity, whilst quite shy initially, builds to freshen and accentuate the finish. A wine that really wakes up the tastebuds, with a wonderful amalgam of fruit, texture, acidity and sweetness. I’ve tried several vintages of Bredif’s Vouvray from this decade and the ‘88 is by far my favourite - a classy and very enjoyable wine.

We also enjoyed a handful of other wines where I wasn’t so rigorous on notes. A 2001 SA Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese had a lovely undercurrent of acidity with some botrytis fruit notes and delectable sweetness. The 2007 Cristom Mt Jefferson Cuvee Pinot from Oregon showed well with Steve Doerner’s telltale tannins and structure - a beautiful wine, especially when given the context of the vintage. A Forrest “Bubbles for Beth” Sparkling Syrah Malbec gave the Aussies their fizzy red fix (great juice) and a 2000 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant red blend served blind had everyone confused (seamless, with flavour intensity and tactile tannins).