Vinoculation

I rekindled an old, warm relationship last week with the amiable staff at Cousinns restaurant, a venue that resides in relative obscurity amongst the suburban backstreets of Papanui, Christchurch. Good service, good atmosphere, great prices, sensational food. And it’s BYO.

I was compelled to return a week later, to satisfy my pangs for their pork belly with chorizo sausage. In a decidedly less raucous and more civilized state this evening (the waitress didn’t even recognize me), a small portion of salmon cakes set the speed, accompanied by a 2000 Santenay Premier Cru Burgundy. Incidentally, we had the restaurant to ourselves, which despite being a Tuesday night I find incredibly hard to believe, given the gourmet magic this place seems to conjure up so effortlessly.

For the pork belly main event, a 2000 Te Mata Coleraine proved more than adequate. Big thumbs up to Cousinns; as per usual, a great night.

TN: 2000 Te Mata Coleraine Cabernet/Merlot

A dense, dark red with lighter ruby edges. The nose is restrained, gently releasing aromas of dark plum, chocolate, red capsicum and newly-laid carpet. Medium bodied, the strong acid profile is immediately evident, tucked under red and black palate fruit laden over subtle coffee oak. There isn’t as much weight as one might expect from the label or vintage, though this trait translates to a flavoursome, highly drinkable finish augmented by fine, ever-so-slightly powdery tannins. At this early stage in its life, a brilliant food wine, with the acid ensuring this wine will remain fresh and ready for a long time yet. Hold and return in a decade.