Vinoculation

My first introduction to Drew Noon MW (Master of Wine - currently there are only 280 across the world) and his wines was shortly after I first arrived in New Zealand over five years ago. Working at a wine store while studying, I received an email from an importer offering some cult Australian wines, including the Noon reds. Having never heard of Noon, I quickly did some research and also consulted with my good friend Craig who always had the number on hard-to-get, premium SA booze from small producers.

Some big Parker scores seemed to have put Noon on the map and with a tiny production (at least by Australian standards) there was now a considerable waiting list for the mailing list. Failing that, you could purchase the wines at super-inflated prices on the secondard market, or at very reasonable prices in the New Zealand market. And so I blindly secured an allocation of the 2003 reds; the Reserve Shiraz, the Reserve Cab and the Eclipse (a Grenache/Shiraz blend off bush vines grown at Drew’s own property, as opposed to the fruit for the Res Shz and Cab which is sourced from a Langhorne Creek vineyard).

I promptly brought the Eclipse along to a wine dinner where it swamped everything before it, and everything after it. Massive wines, made that way before it was fashionable.

Back in the day, Drew didn’t have an email or website. I called him the next day and left a message - I was super keen to head over and work for him over vintage, but at the very least spend a few minutes talking to the man over the phone. What happened next was truly astonishing.

He called back. Naturally, he couldn’t have me over for vintage - he just didn’t make enough wine to warrant having someone else around - but he called back. A call back from a winemaker is an exceedingly and increasingly rare event, but here was Drew, calling back some young student MW-wanna-be in another country, to relay that message but also talk about the MW, his wines, his philosophy and even me for the next half hour. I haven’t yet had the opportunity to meet Drew face-to-face, but I already know that he is one of the nicest, most genuine blokes in the entire wine industry.

It has to be said, however, that my wine tastes have changed over the past five years. I now drink more pinot, enjoy cool climate syrah, generally steer clear of sauv and pinot gris, and continue to explore new varieties or styles in Europe and North America. But winter in Central Otago is here, they’ve predicted snow, the fire is roaring and after a hearty home-cooked meal, there’s only one option for an after-dinner red; something ballzy, something Australian.

2003 Noon Reserve Cab Sauv
A narrow perimeter of burgundy red colour is the only indication that this wine has age, the remainder an impenetrable blood red sea. The nose, fruit-forward and spicy, boasts bold aromas of aniseed, cassis, eucalypt, blackberry and a hint of smoky, chocolate toast. It’s a sensory barrage of heady, volatile fruit bursting from the glass; it’s a Noon.

Initially a little awkward and disjointed, the mouthfeel found its footing on the second night (something I’ve noticed with Drew’s wines in the past) and all the compounds just came together. Spicy, liqueur berry fruit playful on the palate, the prickly touch of woolen velvet adding grip to the texture and a gentle undercurrent of fresh acidity augmenting the structure.

Tannins are still a little grainy, reinforcing varietal distinction and a sweet fruit finish. At a paltry 14.9% alcohol, this is the only Noon wine I can recollect having that is under 15% a/v. Not as rich or unctuous as I was expecting, but this was nice for a change.

Cheers,

Max