Vinoculation

When I think of South Africa and wine, I think of big, bold, slightly jammy reds and playful, austere Chenin Blanc or sophisticated and delicate Sauvignon Blanc. Chardonnay is not one of the varietals I associate with the hot barren plains or maritime climates of South Africa. However the few Chardonnays I have tried from South Africa have been good… very good. Then I came upon a phenomenon which I would have to put in my top 3 chardonnays I have ever tasted.

2004 Springfield Estate “Methode Ancienne” Chardonnay
Approximately 3 vintages in every 10 vintages produce a drinkable wine using this method (methode ancienne), which involves pressing the grapes straight into barrel and leaving it, never touching it, until the wine is fed - unfiltered and unfined - to bottle. The 2004 was one of the great ones.

Viscous pale straw in colour and appearance.

The nose opened all coconut and caramel, with pineapple and hints of campfire wood smoke. Is this Mersault? Then lemon rind and fresh white peach appeared, accompanied by star fruit and star anise spice. The aroma profile developed over the next half hour, going through a wonderful baked apple pie with a baking bread, yeasty hint and a waxy aroma that was delightful.

From the nose I was expecting a warm, enveloping, cuddly yet complex palate. A quick sip and I was thinking oaky Chablis (!), a contradiction no doubt. The acidity is high and tingling giving the wine a wonderfully fresh initial palate. Then an intense and complex mid palate takes over, offering an array of warm butter on toast, with apple and caramel. Minerality abounds, fortified by a long, undulating finish that has grapefruit and lime. The alcohol is very present, but in the form of a warm, comforting blanket rather than overpowering or disjointed heat. Forty-five seconds later and the flavour profile was still lingering.

A sensational Chardonnay!