Vinoculation

The very first post on this wine blog relayed the inaugural wine and jazz evening, held several months ago. The second stanza of the wine and jazz chronicles occurred last week, with equally pleasing results. As culinary enthusiasts match food with wine, it is becoming increasingly clear that wine and jazz serve as a concordant pairing. I envisage that, for our next evening, perhaps a formal itinerary should be prepared with food and jazz matches for particular wines. Could be a lot of fun!

So at the behest of Gazza’s ethereal, endorphin emancipating Gale speakers, the aural stage was set with Bill Evans and the Village Vanguard Sessions. The newly released 2006 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett was cracked and provided immense enjoyment; 7.5% alcohol, high residual sugar and sprightly acid interplayed brilliantly with a mosaic of flavours and taste sensations. A wild boar terrine, organic ciabatta and a half wheel of Waimata brie kept appetites more than satisfied. Kenny Barron followed Evans, with Oscar Peterson sustaining listening pleasure until the venison main was ready.

Two reds were served blind; one older, one younger. I thought the first wine was from Australia - South Australia in particular - from the Orlando stables and the ‘96 vintage. Turned out to be a 1994 Orlando Lawson’s Padthaway Shiraz, so I wasn’t far off. Still with plenty of gas left in the tank, this was a fantastic match for the venison (which I mistook for some really, really tasty beef!) and effortlessly proclaimed the virtues of older wine. The second wine I also went down the Australian path based on the alcohol/warmth on the palate. The greener characters on the nose, but still with fruit depth, indicated a cooler climate/vintage (possibly WA). Turned out the wine wasn’t Australian, but it definitely had some New World fruit to it - a 2002 Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel from Sonoma in the States (I missed the mark on this one!). Not nearly as enjoyable as the Orlando and suffering from a poor vintage, one would think.

Milt Jackson and Monty Alexander (Soul Fusion on vinyl) were fantastic to listen to (highlight of the evening for mine), as was Chick Corea with his Live At The Blue Note performance from 1998. It was at this time that the Chicago Jazz Giants came on with their Blues My Naughty Sweetie Gives To Me - a classic off the Mainstream Jazz CD collection.

Despite the gourmet gorging, I still found room for some pudding and ice cream dessert. A 2001 Kilikanoon Parable Shiraz was opened and whilst it was fairly drinkable, it showed poorly when compared to my last bottle. Jo Henderson (So Near, So Far) followed by the Red Garland Trio (Ron Carter and Philly Joe Jones) provided a fitting end to another fantastic night of food, wine and jazz.

2006 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett
Absolutely sexsational. My best kabinett yet. Shimmies in at a modest 7.5% alcohol with more sugar than expected for a kabinett (product of the vintage?). Delicate yet intense aromatics, with crushed flowers, hint of lemon sherbert and white peach. Exquisite acid/sugar balance; not quite pins-and-needles acid like Wizz mentioned for a white recently (great term, I love it), but it almost fizzes across the tongue with a spicy tingling sensation. Another wave of flavour reverberates on the long finish.
Extremely gluggable. 95

1994 Orlando Lawson’s Shiraz
Lots of VA initially that subsided as old, sweet, stewed fruit characters emerged with some secondaries. Holding it together well on the palate, with conspicuous yet welcoming acid keeping the dream alive. An element of graininess to the tannins. A nice, respectable old shiraz that accompanied venison hot pot well. 89

2002 Seghesio Old Vines Zinfandel
Cool climate nose, warm climate palate = poor year in warm climate (one assumes?). Nothing here that’s terribly characteristic of zin, with leafy/tobacco/undergrowth characters to the nose and structurally awkward and warm on the palate. Apparently these guys normally do a pretty good job, but this one was disappointing. 83

2001 Kilikanoon Parable Shiraz
Mealy, with some char/toast on the nose and blackberry jam. Back palate and finish is MIA, with a lack of fruit intensity. Tasted earthy and of spirit. This was fantastic 1-2 years ago - suspect heat damage? NR