In a region where Pinot Noir is so prolific, there might be an expectation that Chardonnay will be the white wine standard, but there aren’t many markers for Central Otago Chardonnay. But this isnt Burgundy - Pinot Gris and Riesling taking prominence as the white wine flag bearer for the region.
Within the Felton Road stable Chardonnay is probably their least heralded varietal. But experience says Blair Walter can turn his hand to this grape, and the magnum of 04 Block 2 we guzzled a few years ago was testament to that.
This 2010 Felton Road Bannockburn Chardonnay has more colour than many chards of this age, and is full of agricultural smells - mown hay, almond meal. Its fruit backwards on the palate too. Some traces of honeydew accompany orange and pithy grapefruit, yielding to grilled nuts and slightly spicy oak elements. A touch of complexing bitterness on a tight elegant finish. This is fresh and really attractive, we found ourselves reaching for another bottle, and asking ourselves how Burgundian this wine was. A tantalising glimpse at what Central Otago might do in a line of Chardonnay.
So two nights later the Burgundian reference was put to the test as we opened a 2007 Bouchard Mersault Genevrieres, to get some perspective on the Felton Road’s style from a wine that I thought might be a comparable style, albeit significantly more expensive and a 3 year headstart.
Straw colour. Wet wool/lanolin smells at first, with a bit of oak spice showing as well. The palate is very Genevrieres, more open and loose knit than the vineyards higher up the same burgundian slope in Mersault. This is fruit based without the minerally bits that come from Perrieres or Charmes. Orange rind and pith, pink grapefruit, butterscotch, green pineapple, in a creamy textured package, leaving a struck match reductive element as it flows effortlessly by. That its still tightly coiled, shows on the persistent yet taut finish which lives for some time. Its presence will be better felt with a decant or as it unwinds over the next 3 or 4 years. Seriously good juice.
So there you go - right now, the Felton Road is good, but the Bouchard is a knockout withits extra complexity and power.
Cheers Andrew
I had the pleasure to visit Domaine de Montille when working in Burgundy for the 2011 vendange. It was a domaine that, at the time, I hadn’t tried the wines of, yet knew by reputation. We had a tour of the cellars and then a tasting of the (very) young whites and reds. Domaine de Montille is a brother/sister team – Etienne and Alix de Montille; Etienne responsible for the reds and Alix the whites. The whites were incredibly bracing and rather confronting for me, though not without balance and tremendous ageing potential. I’d love to have a look at one with some age. The reds I was fonder of, demonstrating exceptional poise and structure, still with an acid profile that I imagine is a trait of the house style.
This premier cru Volnay has an ethereal nose of crushed red berries, sous bois, kitchen herbs and spices with a hint of smoked bacon. It’s incredibly complex, boasting new and varied aromas with each sniff. Classically medium bodied, with layers of (still) primary red berries on the palate (cranberries in particular), buoyed by youthful acidity that has indescribably woven itself within the fruit and structure of the wine. Finishing with spectacular length and ripe, sinewy tannin, it’s an unmistakable pinot noir of Burgundy that is six years young and possesses a very bright future. A thoroughly enjoyable, very complete wine, at home with lasagne on the first night or pork belly on the second night. Can’t wait to try some more.
The Clos St Jacques. In a way, Gevrey Chambertins unluckiest vineyard in that this Premier Cru site is more highly regarded than some of Burgundy’s Grand Cru sites. It shares this dubious honour with sites like Malconsorts and les Amoreuses.
My introduction to Clos St Jacques was via the revered wines of Armand Rousseau, and his wines from there are amazing. Fragrant purple berries, and coiled power seem to be the hallmarks.
Domaine Fourrier’s has holdings in Morey St Denis, Chambolle Musigny and Gevrey Chambertin, including a patch in the Clos St Jacques. Here is what they managed in 2001.
Some time in decanter is needed to bring blueberries, redcurrant and other small forest fruits out from a leafy, twiggy pinot sap base. Medium grained tannins assert their presence as the fruit subsides, and are resolving nicely, acids are nicely in check, all coming together to produce a delicious balanced drink that’s silky in the mouth and slips down beautifully. A highly credible wine made as Fourrier was beginning its rise to fame.
Cheers
Andrew
Okay, what gives? Andrew and I are on Barbera benders! Ever since the three days in Barolo and Barbaresco with SWMBO back in Sept/Oct last year, it has rejuvenated an interest in this grape that was long dormant. Whilst I do prefer the tannic grip of the Barolos and Barbarescos, my other half finds them too confronting (in their youth) but thoroughly enjoys the Barberas and such - which I also really enjoy. And the food just works. Sitting down to any kind of Italian food, be it pizza, pasta, or (my preference) a Parmesan at the end of the night, the wines are a natural fit.
Previously, I’ve been enjoying the Barbera d’Albas of Elio Altare and Pelissero, with some extras saved to open for Andrew, Dave and Co when they descend on Central Otago at Easter time. In the meantime, I picked up this cheapy as part of a mixed dozen.
Immediately recognizable as Asti, the fruit is red, lifted and candied, biased too much to the latter. There is a hint of pencil shavings and forest floor to add interest. On the palate, it’s not as lightly worked as the nose might suggest, with the tell-tale acid profile reinforced by quite fine, slightly gritty tannin and good body. Whilst the fruit is still red spectrum - tamarillo, tart redcurrant and cherry - it loses the candy character and comes across quite fresh and visceral. There is enough depth to the fruit too, with concentration to offset the linearity. All in all, a solid wine. It doesn’t possess the character, charm or complexity of a more respected (and costly) Barbera (be it from Asti or Alba), but pleasant enough for the sub $20 price point.
Cheers,
Max
Early this year a friend presented a Barbera to a group of us. It was a bottle given as a gift by an Italian acquaintance, who appreciates good red wine and knows his way around northern Italy. And it seriously got my attention. I pondered whether I had missed a trick by not having much experience with this grape. When a Barbera offersubstantially based on the highly regarded 09 vintage appeared from an online retailer, I thought a mixed sixpack was worth a look. Here is my take on these six wines, plus one other.
2010 Massolino Barbera D’Alba $32 This is bright and fresh being so young. Crunchy Blackberry, tomato leaf, some fresh compost savouriness, in a ripe slightly syrupy package that has enough interest but lacks a bit of complexity. Finishes fresh if slightly hot, fair enough pizza wine. 85/100. 14% ABV.
2009 Brezza Santa Rosalia Barbera D’Alba. $29 This is more what I expected at least in terms of weight. Smells like Red Frogs, joyous sweets that they are with licorice blackcurrant and a touch of road tar. From there the palate is right on for weight but doesn’t rise to the challenge. Dusty tannins support redcurrant ripe tomato and some black berry hints, which is all ruined by a chemical character and a short simple finish. This is possibly somewhat scalped – but as is, 74-5/100. Sealed under Vinolok. Also 14% ABV.
2009 Vietti Barbera D’Asti Tre Vigne $42 Another disappointment here from a highly regarded maker – but in this case its because of the cork. TCA affected. No rating.
2009 E Pira Barbera D’Alba $46 Now thats better. Takes a little bit of airtime to come up. This is rich and ripe black and red berries, touched with forest floor, chook poo savouries and hallmark tomato acid profile. Quality tannic grip here too. Better with food than without, and needs some time to integrate. 87+/100.
2009 Conterno Fantino Barbera Vignota $42 Ooh lovely right off the bat. Deep purple colour here and 14.5% alcohol tells me this is going to be a biggie, and it is. Tarry, charcoal and plums, ribena. Dense and primal, but in common with the others, the bright acids help this a little. Not especially complex, the tannins are moderate and chewy, leading to a warm tingly finish where a little bit of nice oak shows. Lovely food wine. Nice, if a touch weighty. 88/100
2008 Paitin Campolive Barbera D’Alba $46 Immediately less fruity than the other wines, this is mor ebuilt on tannins and savoury elements. There is a feral, animal element to this, and tomatoes and purple jubes as well. Not the full flavoursome wines the others are, this will have its appeal however. 83/100
And this wine, tasted some weeks before the others: 2009 Luciano Sandrone Barbera D’Alba $56 A lovely garnet red. Tomato and redcurrant, lovely purple jubes and a smell that just says “winery” to me – old oak, fermenting juice. Marked by acid freshness, this has soaked up a lot of its oak already and is all about vibrant, bright fleshy fresh fruit. Moreish, plump and screaming for food and friends. 90/100.
The wrapup: So it would seem Barbera is a workhorse grape, that can make pleasant enough wine, and good wine in good vintages, but is never likely to soar to the heights that other grapes like Nebbiolo can achieve. What does set Barbera apart are the bright acids that accompany the ripe full flavoured dark fruits. These aren’t cheap for what they are – there are multiple Australian (and New Zealand) wines which would fulfil the same food wine role and do it at half the price. Plenty of shiraz, sangiovese, tempranillo and even pinot noir at mid $20’s which will do the job just as well.
Grosses Gewachs isn’t exactly garden variety riesling, and not the easiest thing to access in Australia where local dry rieslings corner what little of the market there is. But here this is, from the Halenberg vineyard in the Nahe Valley in Germany, from a maker held in the highest regard both locally and internationally.
There’s not a lot to smell at first. It’s a delicate little lime flower on the nose. But the palate is something else. It opens deceptively quietly with airy lime juice and white flowers. From there it builds and builds - rich honeyed tones, yellow peaches, rockmelon and persimmons all built on a creamy textural base that suggests some lees contact. A powerful persistent wine that finishes long, with an interesting lime pith twist in it that lingers for some time. The acids are far from monolithic which allows this to be attractive now, but leave it alone to integrate for a few years, it will impress you all the more for your patience.
A demonstration of where dry riesling can go.
There’s been a fair bit if controversy among about the Pyramid Valley Pinot Noirs of late, at least among my personal drinking circles. The micro-production chardonnays (50 cases!) have been collecting stunning reviews and I’ve never got around to opening one. Anticipation and trepidation. There’s a lot of colour on this, for a four year old chardonnay. Seeing this much golden yellow so soon raises the spectre of oxidation or at least a rapidly advanced wine, which would be a disaster under a screwcap. But the smells and tastes on offer here are something quite different… This has hallmarks of a top chardonnay, hazelnuts, cashews, nougat, cumquat rind and peaches to smell. Inviting and intriguing, expressive but still coy. There are worked, oxidative, oyster like elements in the palate profile, probably a reflection of the wild yeast ferment and 10 months on lees. It’s a melange of nougat, cashews, cumquat and quince, with some crushed rock minerality and a seaspray element going on here. Piercing lemon lime acidity on an insistent finish. A sitting down, thinking wine. Me likely very much.
White Rhones are still something of a novelty in the New World, both to growers and drinkers. Sure, there is a bit of Marsanne in Australia, along with some Rousanne and the odd drop of Viognier, sometimes these seem like they are grown to blend into Syrah rather than to be made into white wines.
Even more novel is Clairette, which shares Rousanne as the major component of this wine. After tasting, this, and knowing how cheap it must be in its home country, I wonder why we don’t see more like this.
The wafting spring garden smells of honeysuckle and waxy white blossoms are a welcome introduction, along with some more kitchen like smells like lemon curd and some smoky spicy nuances. Vanilla cream, oranges, tinged with ginger and brown spices, waxy chewy honeycomb texture. While this isn’t blessed with insane length or mind bending complexity, its fresh and tasty, has body from its 14% alcohol, and a is great alternative to Chardonnay and other fuller bodied whites with white meats and salads. Expect to pay low $20s.
“This is nice, its halfway between Pinot Noir and Shiraz”.
.
My wife doesn’t have a trained palate, and she hasn’t learned all the pretentious descriptors, but she knows what she likes. And in many ways, this is everything I would want from a good pizza wine.
The only downside here is the Sandrone Barbera is about $A50, elevating it above casual takeaway status.
A lovely garnet red. Tomato and redcurrant, lovely purple jubes and a smell that just says “winery” to me – old oak, fermenting juice. Marked by acid freshness, this has soaked up a lot of its oak already and is all about vibrant, bright fleshy fresh fruit. Moreish, plump and screaming for food and friends.
It’s rare to come across Mosel producers who I haven’t heard of that are available in New Zealand. Rarer still to come across them at a $20 price point for genuine Spatlese level wine. So, I took the punt (as if it ever was) to nab a couple of bottles and cracked the first this evening with leftover roast pork and a fried egg on toast with chutney and bbq sauce.
The nose is a sweet amalgam of flowers and yellow fruit; orange blossom, jasmine, peach and apricot. The tiniest trace of sulphide is evident in what is a fairly ripe aromatic profile. A tad reticent too, so don’t be afraid to warm the glass. Medium bodied, it tastes like a Spatlese (as opposed to an Auslese, which seems to be a recurring theme these days) in its lack of overt richness or exoticness, maintaining the weight and concentration of Spatlese. That said, it is lacking a spine of Spatlese acidity, finishing a little musty (some rotten/botrytis fruit) and a bit cloying. But hey, at $20 landed in New Zealand, it must be under Eu10 domestically and it’s punching well at that price point.
Keep it icy cold to help that acid presence (at the expense of the aromatics), open with a bunch of friends and you’ll be laughing. Great with the fried egg too…
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