Vinoculation

The annual pinot noir roadshow arrived in Christchurch on Monday night with touring winemakers from some of New Zealand’s most respected and well regarded wineries: Greg Hay (Peregrine), John Kavanagh (Neudorf), Duncan McTavish (Waipara Hills) and Helen Masters (Ata Rangi). The three hour tasting of nearly one hundred pinots from the ‘06 vintage provided a broad overview of vintage conditions and the styles of wines conducive to a particular season, appended by reinforcing comments from the winemakers themselves. And hell, I worked the ‘06 vintage, so I ought to have an idea myself!

Despite the vast geomorphological influences that make each pinot noir growing region so unique within New Zealand, the weather patterns lead to a season that unfolds with little inter-regional variation. Thus, stylistic trends arise each vintage, with the wines manifesting subtle differences to express their terroir. The 2006 vintage was, in short, quantity and quality driven; the winemaker and bank manager dream vintage. Good rains during winter 2005 provided adequate soil moisture for the vines to burst and grow rapidly. Conditions during flowering were ideal and fruit set was exceptional; many bunches were so well set that premature shrivel of certain berries occurred because the clusters were so tight. Summer temperatures were warm, but not blistering like the ‘98 or ‘00 vintages. Temperatures cooled as Autumn approached and if picking was judged correctly amongst sporadic rain events, the quality was very high. As Helen Masters put it “the bunches at harvest were truly beautiful”.

Now, what does this say about the wines? Allow me to generalize. Firstly, crops in ‘06 were much, much higher than the two preceding vintages. In the more marginal climates (Central Otago and Martinborough), frosts hit hard for 2004 and a very cold flowering period hurt crops for the 2005 vintage. Yields were down severely - we’re talking upwards of 60-70% down in some places. So, whereas the previous two vintages had little fruit on the vine and produced wines of tremendous concentration and extract, 2006 allowed a more balanced ripening cycle and typical crop load to produce pinot noirs that are more characteristic of varietal nature. More structural. The wines are less cuddly and affectionate in their youth, relying upon their tannin profiles, true pinot aromatics and structural integrity to provide you with a glimpse of their future selves. Future selves that, unquestionably, will have benefited from time.

So what was good? Whilst the super cult pinots are missing from these sorts of tastings (Felton Road, Dry River, Neudorf Home Block, Escarpment Kupe, etc), there is still an excellent range of wines on hand that have already been culled down to the select best by a tasting panel at FWDC. My picks from each major region were:

• Ata Rangi (Martinborough)
• Neudorf Moutere (Nelson/Marlborough)
• Danny Schuster Omihi (Waipara)
• Peregrine (Central Otago)

Given my historical proclivity for the minnows and somewhat esoteric pinots at these tastings, I was surprised by my arrival at a list of what are considered mainstream and very popular wineries. A credit to how they have achieved their status. The one surprise of that list was the Danny Schuster Omihi Hills Pinot. Now, I’ve tasted previous vintages of this wine for the last three or four years, and I’ve never been enamored by the results. Sure the wines have some Burgundian character to them and are often tasted far too young, and you can’t take anything away from such a critical component to the NZ wine industry as Danny Schuster, but the wines were weedy, thin, lacking in fruit and incredibly overrated. That is, until this vintage. His ‘06 Omihi Pinot has oodles of dark berry fruits, plenty of weight, deft handling of oak and retains for every second the Schuster fingerprint of elegance, pinosity and craftsmanship. Schusterphiles and anti-Dannys unite - here is something worth rediscovering.

John Kavanagh, it must be said, is a champion. One of the few warm and genuine winemakers to have graced the circuit. And it’s reflected in his wines. As he adds a notch to his belt of winemaking years at Neudorf, it would seem that he grows and develops his relationship to the vineyard, the fruit, the sites and the people. The relationship is becoming more intimate. And with this greater intimacy comes greater depth to the wines, if that were considered possible. The tannins, in particular, would give my tongue wet dreams. In fact, they have.

I particularly enjoyed the Ata Rangi and Peregrine wines this year more so than previous years for one reason. The aromatics. These wines are complex already, with bouquets that have been complemented with perfume, florals and briar in addition to the surplus fruit abundance that remains as a backbone. Both epitomize balance.

Though not afforded the luxury of its own wine region, it would be remiss of me not to mention the Kumeu River Estate Pinot Noir. This wine was chunky, as only a young Burgundian replicate could be. I still cannot fathom how Michael Brajkovich continues to craft such amazing wines from fruit grown in lowly Auckland, but here he is, doing it year in, year out. One for the cellar, as most of these wines are.

Other worthy mentions included the Clayridge Excalibur (exotic and unusual), Desert Heart (pure Central Otago), Escarpment (a very close second to Ata Rangi - impeccable wine), Gravitas (very, very good), Terravin Hillside (’04 and ‘05 vintages - lashings of fruit), Montana Terroir Series Corbetts Legacy (a surprise pinot from Waipara), and Ra Nui (an undiscovered gem from Marlborough).

The slight disappointments included Valli Gibbston Vineyard (lots of capsicum and greenery), ‘04 Pegasus Bay Prima Donna (lacked X-Factor), Kaituna Valley (the eucalypt is back this year), ‘05 Carrick (seemed empty on the day), and Craggy Range Te Muna (lacked the poise and polish of previous years). Whilst I won’t make excuses for these wineries and stand by my judgment on the day, remember that impressions from these sorts of tastings need to be taken with a grain of salt.

The verdict? The 2006 vintage looks like a cracker for New Zealand pinot noir.

I liken Tim to a rockstar. He has that air of cool about him, dressing chic with funky glasses and a styled hairdo. I half-expect a throng of gushing chardonnay groupies to be shadowing his every stride. But enough about the man – the Clearview Estate wines of Tim Turvey are what I’m really about.

I first met Tim and tasted his wines in 2005. At the time, I was a bigoted, one-eyed Aussie when it came to red wine (some would argue that nothing’s changed) and it was his range of crotch-bolstering, hairs-on-your-chest reds from Hawkes Bay that opened my eyes. Ever since, I’ve kept a watchful gaze over Clearview Estate and Tim’s continuing innovations. Special select-barrel wines, old cabernet francs from the cellar, and now a very unique pinot noir. 

The 2006 Clearview Estate “Des Trois” Pinot Noir is a blend of fruit sourced from vineyards in Central Otago, Waipara and Martinborough; none other than Peregrine, Pegasus Bay and Escarpment. This style of regional blend is a relatively new approach for a premium pinot noir in New Zealand, yet the benefits of sourcing fruit from many regions to build complexity and character has long been exploited by quality-driven producers; Penfolds Grange is an iconic example. 

Today I had the opportunity to taste this pinot noir, alongside the 2006 Clearview Estate Beachhead Chardonnay and Sea Red (a fortified dessert wine). The chard represents excellent value for money, the pinot is a wine unashamedly crafted by brutish, masculine hands and the sea red performed well above (already high) expectation. 

2006 Clearview Estate Beachhead Chardonnay
Juicy stonefruit abounds on the nose, with nutty, varnished oak, bacon fat and subtle perfume. With plenty of flavour, this tastes fresh (as it ought to) and fruity. Good palate coverage and an appropriate amount of body and weight for the style; not too heavy, not too light. Fruit tingle acid zings pleasingly on the finish and whilst the length is a little abrupt, a $50 chard this ‘aint. 90 

2006 Clearview Estate “Des Trois” Pinot Noir
This is fruit war. Macerated cherries, juicy blackberries, pulverized raspberries; a bramble patch massacre. Violets, anise and a lick of vanilla too. Smells bloody yummy, albeit a little wayward from varietal typicity. The acid stands out like dog’s balls initially, but a wave of fruit comes crashing over the palate to mask its harshness. There is a degree of warmth, though it’s not unpleasant. The palate coverage is broad, with everything a bit hodgepodge at this young, primary stage. The fine, slightly pervasive tannins reinforce the structure and bode well for the wine’s longevity. I feel that the warmth may become more overt as the primary fruit drops away, recommending that this be drunk in 2-3 years with food, when it should be superb. 90 

2006 Clearview Estate Sea Red
Driven by lots of briary, stalky spice and surrounded by fruitcake, plum and mocha. The spice is particularly intriguing, leaning towards the vegetal spectrum. Sweet, liqueured fruit envelopes the palate. Textural, sticky, unctuous and rich, the fruit generosity and weight is surprising and masked well by the bouquet. Never hot or alcoholic, not even for a second. Finishes with subtle, dry tannins that counterpoint the initial fruit sweetness. Delicious. Really good. Grab some. Now. 93

We returned to the old haunt of Cousinns restaurant on Tuesday night for one of the Dirty Dozen dinners come Christchurch Offline. Andrew (known by his forum alias “Wizz”) had come over from Brisbane with Mrs Wizz for a conference, presenting a very valid excuse for an evening full of mass wine consumption. There was a big turnout too, with fifteen of us in total (and nice to see a good mix of guys and gals). It’s worth noting that despite my enjoyment of the salmon cakes and duck confit main, the presentation lacked its usual flair and others weren’t entirely happy with their meals. Me thinks this is due to a change in chef, with the previous European bloke now gone and replaced by a young apprentice fresh out of the Polytechnic Institute.

No tasting notes were taken, as is fast becoming tradition, so recollections and impressions will have to suffice. Note that this list is by no means full and I will have to rely upon Andrew’s scriptures (in good time) to provide a full wine-itemised account of the evening.

1996 Stoneleigh Riesling
A gorgeous aged riesling, minus the kero. Acid profile still has remnants of its youthful skeleton, leaning me towards Australia in the Options Game. Long finish and a delightful way to start.

1996 J. L. Wolf Wachenheimer Koningswingert Halb Trocken Kabinett
Andrew basically picked this wine blind. The wine started out closed and dumb, but blossomed into a complex riesling with sulphur/mineral components and lots of green citrus character on the palate. The flavour pinpricked its way across the tongue. Interesting and very enjoyable.

2006 Johanneshof Gewurztraminer 
The icon NZ gewurz. These wines age exceptionally and the ‘03/’04 imitate their Alsacian brethren scarily well. This is looking much better than it did on release (when the acid was MIA), but still needs time. Warmth is evident on the palate, without the acid for true Johanneshof longevity, though the wine still maintains a lush texture.

2002 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay
Wine of the night. This was exceptional. It had lots of seasoned, fine-grained, tactile French oak on the nose and palate, but there was lots of everything else to counterpoint this. Fruit to boot, judicious acid balance, the palate not fat but precise and fine. Gorgeous. Drink with food (salmon cakes were perfect), or wait another 2-5 years.

2002 Savaterre Chardonnay
A very different wine to the Neudorf. This had less overt oak and went down the textural, malo and lees stirring spectrum instead. Great to ponder on after the Neudorf; without food, just by itself. Had subtle butter components and heaps of flavour. Very well crafted and a long finish. Tasty. Very tasty.

1998 Morris (?) Durif
My first impressions were Zinfandel. My second impressions were Petit Syrah. Pity I didn’t voice that second impression. Despite the age, this was still a big wine, with heaps of sweet, confected, raisin-like characters and some heat on the palate. The nose was actually quite enjoyable, with some interesting complexity despite the primary fruit. Good weight on the palate, stung by the hint of alcohol. Wrong time of night to have this wine too.

2003 Coney Pizzicato Pinot Noir
Corked.

2002 Maestro Sangiovese Cabernet
This was Zollie being a tricky bastard. I think I failed in every option on this one. It had some rustic, old world qualities to it (no doubt thanks to the Sangiovese and NSW regionality) and appeared older than it was. Savoury and well structured. Good curio value.

2000 Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir
This smelt old. Really old. Had pinot written all over it, with stalky, briary, cherry fruit on the nose. The primary fruit had fallen away on the palate, leaving a shell of interesting complexities that were being scoured by sour acid. The tannins were dry and quite obvious. Interesting wine, but having had it before, I don’t think it was a representative bottle. In fact, I know it wasn’t.

1995 Stonecroft Ruhanui
My second bottle in three days. An excellent example of an aged Hawkes Bay red drinking at its peak. An unusual mix of cabernet, merlot and syrah that seems to work well. Secondary characters dominate, with tired fruit and leather. Tannins resolved but still with a degree of grit.

2006 Passage Rock Syrah
I can’t even remember trying this, but I have had it before. Yet to have a Waiheke wine I like. This is bold, warm, meaty and oaky. If you like that, jump on in.

2001 Castagna Genesis Syrah
The sirens were wailing on this one with the Brett Police called to the party. I’m normally pretty tolerant of low-level Brett, but the bandaid characters did tend to blossom the longer this was in the glass. Initially, there were some lovely pine, smoked meat, blackberry and leather characters. Very elegant on the palate, still underpinned by fresh acid. Short-to-moderate length on the finish. Bummer about the Brett.

2005 Dry River Late Harvest Riesling
I think this was mildly corked, based on previous bottles, but still drunk with reckless abandon by most at the table. Completely overpowered by the rich desserts, this was very delicate and almost tending kabinett in style. Very young, very fresh and quite austere. Needs heaps more time. Heaps more.

Let me start by saying how fond I am of Sacred Hill and Tony Bish. Their reserve wines are nothing short of spectacular, with incredible consistency from year to year. The Deerstalkers Syrah is poised for greatness. Nevertheless, I have a Sacred Hill Whitecliff Pinot Noir in front of me (as to how it ended up in my cellar, I have no idea), so let’s talk about this pinot.

A strawberry, candied, mushroom nose adorns a light-coloured pinot; almost a dark blush. In the mouth, the wine lacks texture, it is very lightweight and has no presence whatsoever. Insipid would be an apt descriptor. The palate is awash with sweet, strawberry flavours that become reminscent of cordial on the unsubstantial, barely perceptible tannin finish. There is an element of tartness that comes through on the finish to counterpoint the sweetness, though neither of these characters gel and only add to the wine’s embarrassing structure.

A scathing tasting note, I’ll admit, but if it helps the cause to abolish these lower tier brands from regions that just cannot grow pinot (I’m assuming this has come from Hawke’s Bay, though the bottle and website provide no indication), then I’ll consider it a job well done. Admittedly, this is a cheap pinot directed at a certain market of drinkers - people that will probably actually enjoy it - but if you’re reading this website and my tasting notes, I’ll assume that you’d like me to maintain an unbiased approach full of integrity and outspoken honesty. Screw it, that’s what I’ll do irrespective.

It has to be said that my experiences with Spanish wine have been few and far between. I’ve certainly enjoyed a fair swag of cheap, good value Garnachas and the odd Rioja with some age on it, but when someone is heavily biased to riesling, syrah/shiraz and pinot noir, I guess Spain can slip under the radar. Not so on this occassion.

Lopez de Heredia are swathed in old-school winemaking practices and tradition borne of an ethos established at the same time as the winery in 1877. Their wines are notoriously rustic; bucolic examples of wine crafted to age and only released when the winemaker deems appropriate. Thus, their current releases can often have a decade or two of age, usually split equally with time in older oak and time in bottle.

Mike Weersing, of Pyramid Valley, was on hand to provide an introduction to the winery and account of the wines. He effectively ran the tasting. Mike has a soft spot for Lopez de Heredia, having visited the region and winery before. A family-owned Riojan winery bathed in that much tradition and artisian winemaking would be hard for Mike to resist (or anyone for that matter). It was interesting for me to learn that the vina (vineyards) of the region lie on limestone/clay and chalk soils, having been under the impression that only Champagne could boast a foundation of genuine chalk bedrock.

We were served eight wines from Lopez de Heredia and here are my notes:

1996 Lopez de Heredia Gravonia
Yellow straw colour. Aromatics were nut and honey themed; honeysuckle, peach, nougat and pollen. Broad, honeyed palate with substantial weight and a streak of austerity. Polished mouthfeel. Finishes long with weak citrus notes. Balanced and very enjoyable, with many years ahead.

1989 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Reserva
This wine spends circa 8yrs in barrel and 8yrs in bottle. Yellowed colour with a tinge of gold. Toffee, nutty, brown sugar, aldehydic nose. Quite sherry-like. One suspects a tired, weary palate, but the freshness is immediately apparent. Crisply austere, with a subtle lemon infusion and green apple on the finish. Interesting and intriguing. I couldn’t divorce myself from the sherry bouquet, but I suspect that with more air the nose would change for the better.

1997 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Rose
Very bricked, orange-rust brown colour, still with a glimmer of vibrance. The nose is a mishmash of undergrowth, perfume, rotting raspberries and custard. The palate is driven by young phenolics, with subtle cherry flavourings. Taught acid is kept in check by adequate weight and ripeness. Finishes light, without a great deal of length. Again, an interesting wine, but not my cup of tea.

2001 Lopez de Heredia Cubillo Crianza
Dim, garnet colour. I detected some bandaid brett straight off the cuff. There is also some sour black cherry, cranberry, forest and floral aromatics. The palate is domineered by spiky acid and disjointed fruit, finishing tart and bitter. Quite lightweight and somewhat of a mission to work through. I looked underneath the surface ugliness and failed to find anything resembling enjoyment. Unbalanced.

1999 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia
Garnet red hue with a denser, red centre. A floral nose, supported by tamarillo, redcurrant, a hint of gun-smoke and sappyness. Generous, full-bodied palate with oodles of red-coloured fruits. There is an element of astringency, becoming more pronounced with dry, savoury, skinsy tannins. Good length. Needs a decade or two.

1998 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Reserva
Garnet colour. Slightly maderized nose. Baking spice, corn kernel and floral notes help alleviate the initial oxidative characters which have become more backward, tending to a dried fruit spectrum. There are elements of old, dried, sweet fruit that incise the palate, nicely contrasted by savoury characters maintained within a medium-bodied shell. The acid provides welcome freshness, the tannins semi-resolved with hints of cedar on the finish. An intellectual wine, already showing great character and complexity.

1985 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Gran Reserva
Browning orange, rusted colour. The nose is incredibly complex, bursting with aromatic power; caramel, cola, peanuts, rhubarb, dried herbs, cherry and more. After taking a sip, you’re struck by the majesty of the wine; resolved, rested and ready for drinking, though anything but tired. The gentle, warm, cuddly palate is harmonised by an elegant acid marriage and a mouthfeel of painstakingly polished edges and corners. The tannins are resolved and the finish is long. Not even Stephen Bennett MW and his analogy of grannies and coitus could deter from the quality of this wine.

1981 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Gran Reserva
Tawny orange colour. The oak content is more apparent in this vintage and the bouquet is markedly different; smoke, star anise, caramel fudge, leather and baked citrus. The acid is quite pronounced for such an old wine, as are the fine but apparent tannins. The texture is almost slippery, to quote Weersing. I think this is a longer-lived wine than the ‘85, but more awkward and less gratifying.

So there you have it. Unusual wines, it must be said, but it is so refreshing to actually taste ‘wines’ rather than fruity grape juice as so many are accustomed to these days. The ‘85 Tondonia Gran Reserva was very special and it would be the perfect accompaniment for an appropriate meat dish. In fact, all the wines of Lopez de Heredia are intended to be drunk with food. Mike Weersing presented the wines exceptionally with his confident, charismatic charm.

The Hancocks Winemakers Tour is a yearly event that I always look forward to. One of the largest distributors of wine in New Zealand, their portfolio represents over eight countries and some of the most highly sought after wines in the world. Their annual tasting extravaganza features a sizeable portion of wineries from their portfolio, often with the winemaker in attendance, who may have flown in from overseas that day. Christchurch is always the first port of call for the tour, which means we catch all the winemakers gushing and attentive before they become bleary-eyed and lifeless from three days of exhaustive tasting and travelling. It’s impossible to take tasting notes on these sorts of occassions, so below are some general comments about the wines and the people that presented them.

3 Terraces
I’ve never been enamoured with these wines in the past and forego them to target other producers with my truncated timetable.

Akarua
Winemaker Jacqueline Kemp was there and isn’t she such a genuine, beautiful, knowledgeable winemaker. I’ve always got time for Jacqueline. The oaked chardonnay had just been bottled and whilst it still needs time in bottle to equilibrate the palate, the nose is already charming with judicious use of oak. The new release 2006 Akarua “Cadence” Pinot Noir will also be one to look out for; as always, a long-lived pinot prospect from Akarua.

Allan Scott
I’ve never enjoyed the wines of Allan Scott, so I skipped this stand.

Brookfields
Peter Robertson, winemaker/owner was on hand to represent Brookfields. I didn’t make it back to try their reds (for which they are best known), but the riesling, pinot gris and gewurztraminer were all quality wines with a certain textural plushness.

Fallen Angel
I didn’t try any of the Fallen Angel wines, but I did manage to procure a taste of the ‘06 Stonyridge Larose (just been bottled a couple of months ago). The verdict? A big thumbs down; I’d go so far to say that it was crap. The wine was thin, the acid was spiky, the fruit was dried and tired and the tannins were coarse. Now, maybe it was just a fatigued palate, the environment it was shown in and the fact that it was only recently bottled, but one can only judge what is in one’s glass. Nevertheless, please take note of a potential bias: I am yet to find a Waiheke wine I enjoy and feel that the region is extremely overrated.

Kim Crawford
I vetoed a taste at this stand.

Rockburn
Winemaker Malcolm Francis was there, presenting a very smart range of wines including the new supercult “Eight Barrels Pinot” (complete with wooden case packaging and a saucy little note from Malcolm). The aromatics, as reported previously, are all excellent examples. This year there is no oaked chardonnay, making an unoaked chardonnay instead; it’s pretty good, without being mindblowing. I echo my sentiment from mid-year re the ‘06 Rockford Pinot Noir (it’s going great guns) and the newly released, 12.5% 2006 Rockburn “Eight Barrels” Pinot Noir (made entirely from Gibbston Valley fruit) has Burgundy written all over it. Malcolm calls it his “Anti-Parker Wine”. Should you be fortunate enough to procure any (there were only 150cases made), you will smell the aromatic brilliance of selective whole bunch ferments, the texture and pinot typicity of a non-interventionist winemaker and the peacock’s tail finish (to quote Malcolm) that will leave a smile on your dial and a raised eyebrow questioning how. It’s not cheap at $75, but I like it, and I want some.

Sacred Hill
Winemaker and heart-throb with the girls (c’mon, surely - the silver fox style hair, tan and rugged good looks?), Tony Bish was there to commandeer a corner that rarely - if ever - was devoid of tasters. The pinot gris was smart - surprisingly smart (read texture) - and his Riflemans Chardonnay smelled and tasted like it had received less oak. It hadn’t, as it turns out, but the fruit concentration had soaked it all up to create a style less oaky than previous vintages and I think the wine was better for it. There was no Deerstalkers Syrah present, but his standard syrah is still a bloody good drop and better than I remember it. The standard Merlot Cab was passable, and the ‘04 Brokenstone and ‘04 Helmsman were still too young.

Waipara Hills
Nothing excited me here. Evidence that not all Waipara Riesling is gold.

De Bortoli
Just the briefest of stopovers to try the De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir. I liked it - good value for a sub-$30 prospect that would beat the pants off a lot of similar Kiwis.

Geoff Merrill
I tried three shiraz here and none of them impressed. The 2000 vintage Reserve Shiraz - touted as an anti-vintage wine (the 2000 vintage was a dog in most of SA) - was anything but; so devoid of fruit and character that I assumed it was corked, though the rep assured me that it was representative.

Hewitson
All of the Hewitson wines stood up as solid, 90+ point wines. The ‘04 Old Garden Mourvedre especially stood out, though at circa $60rrp it ought to be.

Kilikanoon
Always one of my personal favourites and one of the top three producers on the day. The ‘03 Grenache showed a bit of alcohol, but otherwise the wines always appear in balance with cores of intense fruit and intuitive oak handling. The Covenant Shiraz was my favourite from the range, preferring it to the dearer Oracle Shiraz which showed more oak and less exotics on the nose.

Taltarni
French winemaker Loic le Calvez was there to satisfy my curiosity. He came across as a content, comfortable, personable and enthralling young winemaker. I only tried the two shiraz; the T Series Pyrenees/Heathcote blend (76/24) and then the 100% Pyrenees example. I slightly preferred the former as a drink-now prospect, with fans of eucalypt aromatics set to be rewarded for patience with the Pyrenees shiraz.

Torbreck
Export director Liz Russell was showcasing Torbreck due to winemaker Dave Powell’s prior commitments elsewhere. Liz knows her stuff and was a pleasure to chat with. As always, the Torbreck range exudes class and sophistication, nary an unappreciative palate in the crowd. Sure the rise in quality may reflect an exponential rise in price, but when Parker is breathing sweet-nothings down your neck and their is huge demand for your wines, why not benefit from the results of your hard work. The ‘04 Factor was good, though I think I prefer the ‘05. The Juveniles is a tutti frutti crowd-pleaser that even the most wine-abstaining friend could enjoy. The ‘05 Steading was a surprise package, with a lot more complexity and x-factor than I remember. The ‘04 Descendant and ‘04 Runrig were awesome, as is to be expected. The tannins of the Runrig in particular were hard to describe; like micro-magnets to a mouth lined with iron-rich gums. They clung, and they did not want to let go. Kudos to Torbreck, who continue to produce world-class wines.

Tyrrells
I stopped in here on a couple of occassions for a quick palate cleanser; 2000 Tyrrells Vat 1 Semillon. Very good, but I think I prefer the ‘99.

Gisselbrecht
The riesling was just okay, the pinot gris was poor, the gewurztraminer was quite good.

Laroche
I tried his three chablis and syrah. The first two chablis were average and the 1er cru was good, though I’ve had better. The syrah was interesting and commendable.

Pol Roger
A nice way to wet the whistle at the start of the day. No vintage Sir Winston Churchill though!

Paul Jaboulet Aine
Just tried his Cotes du Ventoux Traverses, and it was riddled with brett.

Cecchi
Nothing here excited me, though the dregs of the Amarone smelled pretty good.

Montes
Was looking forward to trying these Chilean wines again, but most of them were wreaking of reductive characters. Strange too, because they’re all bottled under cork. The Malbec was okay, but there are far better out there. Strange. Not a representative tasting I don’t think.

I’m sure there were more, but those wines represent some of the producers I visited. Notable absentees from the tour were Nevis Bluff, Kaesler, Balgownie and Chapel Hill.

Cheers

“No, we keep going straight. This is the right road.”

I knew. Like an invisible magnet, the hidden path to the Hill of Grace vineyard was etched in serendipitous marker on the surface of my mind. The Spiritual Homecoming. The Gnadenberg Church loomed in the distance as we coasted up the rise, the car drawing to a halt aside a well maintained vineyard on a gentle, north-facing slope.

There were butterflies. Not in the air, but in my tummy. I started smiling, and I didn’t stop smiling for the rest of the day. Here I was, at the Hill of Grace. I cast a leg over the fence bordering the road and stepped onto the Church Block. Then I took a deep breath, inhaling fresh, clean, midday air that exuded Spring whispers from a vivacious midday sun. Call it fate - the date was September 1.

I began to walk, slowly at first, in a circumspect sort of way as though I was treading unceremoniously on holy ground. I spied the gnarled, chunky, grotesque old vines of the Grandfather Block in the distance and my slow walk became a pacing stride. I started running.

These vines are not the oldest shiraz vines in the world, nor are they the oldest in Australia, I’ve since found out. Planted circa 1860, they post-date the oldest vines in the region by some twenty years. Surprisingly, they still maintain a degree of reasonable vigour and output five tonnes of fruit per hectare (there are eight hectares on the site, though not all of it is shiraz). The buds looked swollen, but there was no sign of sap run unlike the younger and lower altitude Edelstone vineyard.

I ran my hands over the coarse bark. I ran my eyes over the tortuous extremities. I was watching and touching history, almost 150 years of it. The beasts from the original plantings were holding their own, though not without battle scars from the past. Entire trunks had split and separated, in essence creating two vines that had fallen over long ago, unable to support their own weight. Yet they live on.

The vines of the Mt Edelstone vineyard are substantially younger, but we’re still talking circa 100 year old vines. The sap had started running on these old buggers and I can neither confirm nor deny that I may have had an intimate moment with an Edelstone vine, pilfering a quick sample of sappy lifeblood and planting a tender kiss…

My affinity for Henschke stems from a very privileged upbringing by parents that cared about wine. The 1990 Henschke Hill of Grace was the wine that opened my eyes; the turning point in my life, the illuminating shrine for my future existence. When Mum and Dad have deemed circumstances appropriate, an assortment of aged Henschkes have been forthcoming from the crypts of their cellar. Some exceptional, many memorable, rarely disappointing.

I can now check the box on my “do before I die” list for the HoG Visit, though I anticipate many more visits to come in the future.

I wanted to stop, but my body wouldn’t let me. Not the words of some deranged psychopath - though the look on my face would have said otherwise - but my involuntary “shovelling” (to use a term branded on me by Dad) of the pasta dish tonight. I was hungry, and it was good. Bloody good. It was something from Jamie Oliver’s Italian book that Nick whipped up in no time - spaghetti con gamberetti e rucola; a light, tomato based sauce accompanying prawns and rocket with a real smorgasbord of flavours.

The Chilean wine that I’d cracked earlier was a nice match for it too:

2004 Vina la Reserva de Caliboro “Erasmo” Cabernet Merlot
Opened with lifted VA that tamed with some air time. Exotic nose of vanilla, pecan, wild raspberries, star anise, plum and mocha. The fruit concentration is there, but not in the form of dark, black, super-ripe fruit. And I like that. That disposition carried through to the wine’s body and palate; not heavy or overbearing, but moderately weighted with a gentle yet flavoursome mix of red and black berries. The acidity on the finish culminates very subtly, augmenting the surprising length of the wine. The tannins are slightly drying, without being chalky, and the wine ends with a whisper of toast. Most enjoyable. 90

Normally I’m the one skiting to Mum and Dad about the exclusive winemaker tasting I’ve just attended, or the super-cult rare wine I’d just been privy to, but now the tables have turned for once. I’m sure that the folks enjoy just as many (if not more) experiences to those that I tend to rave on about; they’re just a little more reticent in their revelry.

 In any case, here are the highlights of one that was made public to me:

2000 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay
A clear winner for white of the night, despite our chardonnay (ABC) reservations. Sensational wine. Developing beautifully and will live for a long while. Wonderful mouthfilling and full-bodied wine, and yet refined and elegant. Flavours of mixed citrus, light butterscotch and well integrated oak are present right through the tasting experience and linger for a long time. It handled the home cooked spicy Thai chicken soup with consummate ease. This bottle wasn’t from our cellar (thank you Dr Jazz as always) and we can be pleased that we have a small stock for future special occasions.

2005 Felton Road Pinot Noir
There is no doubt about this vineyard - just keeps on producing beautiful and flavoursome pinots that are used as our benchmark when tasting others. I can’t remember ever being disappointed in any Felton Road wine, and we have been drinking them since 1999. Lovely rich fruit with great depth, floral and mineral flavours, integrating beautifully with the oak, with the wine showing continuous improvement since its release. It will be a long-keeping wine for sure, but we won’t have much left in ten years time I suspect. We had this wine in between entree and main and just savoured its delights in its own right. Serve with great confidence but only to those who appreciate it - it’s a cracker!

1979 Baileys Bin 28 Cabernet Sauvignon
Many years ago I procured two bottles of this from auction in the days when I was building up some instant stock of old reds. The first bottle I took along to a dinner party with relative unknowns about six years ago, although we knew the hosts and knew that he was very much into his old wines and had a collection of his own. During the night, our host opened the bottle and decanted it for a while, and during the main course, he discretely passed a new glass with a tasting in it and asked me to check that I was happy with it. He stood back and waited, knowing damn well (he had snuck a taste out in the kitchen) what my reaction would be. An amazing wine (I have no notes from that event but I remember it well). He whispered in my ear that this wine was not going around the table…and it turned out through his amazing ability to deceive that he and I and our respectives shared the whole bottle. The other four guests would not have known white from red really, so this was a very sound outcome.

That left one bottle and it has winked at me since that night, my only fear being the thought that this bottle had a high shoulder level. It’s been one of those wines that I thought I would open on a special occasion, but how many people don’t get to see that special occasion. So I decided that this bottle had to go with the Dinner for Six.

This wine was almost life changing - it is without doubt one of the greatest wines we have ever had the pleasure of enjoying. If I ever find even one bottle around the traps, I don’t expect I will be beaten in bidding for it. Simply unreal. Here was a 28 year-old wine (older than my grown-up children) that had so much life, with beautifully integrated classic cabernet fruit flavours, chocolate, leather and no sign of oak (it had obviously done its job a long time ago). It was, quite simply, a joy to drink. The flavours of the cabernet lingered and lingered, reaffirming my great love for this variety over any other grape when it is at its best. It was impossible to imagine how a wine could taste better - different maybe - but not better. Did it go well with the char-grilled thick-cut veal cutlet on brown butter garlic mash, with preserved lemon and oregano? You better believe it!

The wine was produced from fruit grown in the Taminick Valley, Victoria.

1997 Primo Estate Joseph Moda Cabernet Merlot
This wine had to follow something very special, and it did so quite capably. Fortunately, it had a totally different style and taste, although still predominantly a cabernet with just 10% merlot. It’s the Italian (Valpolicella) winemaking style (Amarone) that Joe Grilli employs that makes this brand a very different wine to drink - the grapes are picked and air-dried on racks for weeks before being crushed, creating wine with great concentration and depth of flavour.

This wine was no exception. Strong fruit flavours with quite concentrated characters, perhaps hints of over-extraction but not in an unpleasant way. Quite dry, tannic style typical of many of Italy’s own wines, however the fruit flavours give hints of its Aussie heritage. Lovely wine and very well matched to the back end of the delicious main course.

Notes by Glen Marriott.

When I think of South Africa and wine, I think of big, bold, slightly jammy reds and playful, austere Chenin Blanc or sophisticated and delicate Sauvignon Blanc. Chardonnay is not one of the varietals I associate with the hot barren plains or maritime climates of South Africa. However the few Chardonnays I have tried from South Africa have been good… very good. Then I came upon a phenomenon which I would have to put in my top 3 chardonnays I have ever tasted.

2004 Springfield Estate “Methode Ancienne” Chardonnay
Approximately 3 vintages in every 10 vintages produce a drinkable wine using this method (methode ancienne), which involves pressing the grapes straight into barrel and leaving it, never touching it, until the wine is fed - unfiltered and unfined - to bottle. The 2004 was one of the great ones.

Viscous pale straw in colour and appearance.

The nose opened all coconut and caramel, with pineapple and hints of campfire wood smoke. Is this Mersault? Then lemon rind and fresh white peach appeared, accompanied by star fruit and star anise spice. The aroma profile developed over the next half hour, going through a wonderful baked apple pie with a baking bread, yeasty hint and a waxy aroma that was delightful.

From the nose I was expecting a warm, enveloping, cuddly yet complex palate. A quick sip and I was thinking oaky Chablis (!), a contradiction no doubt. The acidity is high and tingling giving the wine a wonderfully fresh initial palate. Then an intense and complex mid palate takes over, offering an array of warm butter on toast, with apple and caramel. Minerality abounds, fortified by a long, undulating finish that has grapefruit and lime. The alcohol is very present, but in the form of a warm, comforting blanket rather than overpowering or disjointed heat. Forty-five seconds later and the flavour profile was still lingering.

A sensational Chardonnay!