There is an excellent montepulciano made from Marlborough. This is not it. Peppered steak, tar and smoky, black cherry nose leads to a thin, disjointed, sour cherry palate. Sour acid reverberates with green tannins on the finish. Serve with cheap and nasty Italian - if you must - but best to avoid.
2006 Gibbston Valley Pinot Gris
Aromatic nose that starts off nutty, with concentrated pear and florals, ending with an aldehydic hint. Lush texture - enough acid that it’s not too oily - with more pear and nashi fruit embodied in a rich, flavoursome style. Caveat: warm, tending hot alcohol finish, limits this wine from achieving any exalted status. Label states 14.9%, though I have it on good authority that the alcohol is significantly higher than this. 89 Points.
2006 Rockburn Pinot Noir
Since Malcolm Francis - formerly assistant winemaker at Felton Road - has come on board, there has been a huge lift in the quality and consistency of the Rockburn wines, particularly the aromatics. This morning, however, it’s the pinot noir that demands attention. Dark scarlet colour with a mauve hue. Exotic nose of forest leaf litter, musk, candied cherries and currants on toast. Less weighty than past Rockburn pinots - no doubt a result of the high-yielding 2006 vintage - the typicite garnered is nonetheless attractive. Light and fruity red berry palate fruit leads into a dry, ripe tannin finish and a long, creamy vanilla aftertaste. A pinot that bucks the style pedigree of Rockburn, it’s a well-structured wine that will start firing on all cylinders in 12 months time. 90+ Points.
2004 Viking Wines Grand Shiraz Cabernet
Made by Barossan stalwart Rolf Binder, the fruit for this wine comes off organic, dry-grown, fifty year old vines that have previously found their way into Grange. Rich, dense red-grading-purple colour. Boisterous nose driven by cassis and blackberry, whilst hinting at star anise, boysenberry and cinnamon; captivating, tending more towards the cabernet spectrum. Warm, lifted palate fruit mirrors the nose; sweet, soft and supple. The texture is coarse in places, silky in others, with grainy, sweet tannins to finish. Excellent wine that’s hard to fault with a bright future. 92 Points.
This isn’t an impenetrable, inky purple colour like many young wines from the Gimblett Gravels tend to manifest, but a dark, dense red with a narrow ruby rim. You really need to give this half an hour in the glass before the aromatics develop and blossom; cinnamon, white pepper, blackberry and five spice. Briary, bramble-patch fruit dances on the palate, ably supported by a subtle backbone of acid that attractively counters the inherent sweetness of the fruit. Polished mouthfeel, linear structure, ripe, silky tannins and a persistent finish of red, berry spectrum fruit. Delicious and an excellent example of Kiwi syrah.
I rekindled an old, warm relationship last week with the amiable staff at Cousinns restaurant, a venue that resides in relative obscurity amongst the suburban backstreets of Papanui, Christchurch. Good service, good atmosphere, great prices, sensational food. And it’s BYO.
I was compelled to return a week later, to satisfy my pangs for their pork belly with chorizo sausage. In a decidedly less raucous and more civilized state this evening (the waitress didn’t even recognize me), a small portion of salmon cakes set the speed, accompanied by a 2000 Santenay Premier Cru Burgundy. Incidentally, we had the restaurant to ourselves, which despite being a Tuesday night I find incredibly hard to believe, given the gourmet magic this place seems to conjure up so effortlessly.
For the pork belly main event, a 2000 Te Mata Coleraine proved more than adequate. Big thumbs up to Cousinns; as per usual, a great night.
TN: 2000 Te Mata Coleraine Cabernet/Merlot
A dense, dark red with lighter ruby edges. The nose is restrained, gently releasing aromas of dark plum, chocolate, red capsicum and newly-laid carpet. Medium bodied, the strong acid profile is immediately evident, tucked under red and black palate fruit laden over subtle coffee oak. There isn’t as much weight as one might expect from the label or vintage, though this trait translates to a flavoursome, highly drinkable finish augmented by fine, ever-so-slightly powdery tannins. At this early stage in its life, a brilliant food wine, with the acid ensuring this wine will remain fresh and ready for a long time yet. Hold and return in a decade.
A cool, drizzly night in Christchurch was rapidly transformed into a raging furnace thanks to an over-exuberant heating system at the Treasury Boardroom in the George Hotel. Alas, mediation ensued and ambient temperatures reached a comfortable level for those with three layers of clothing.
2000 Kreglinger Vintage Brut will always set a smile on your dial, courtesy of Andrew Pirie, so the night was off to a good start. After a half-hour introduction to Tasmania’s wine regions, history and state of affairs, it was time to attack the wines. The first flight saw two vintages of Elsewhere Vineyard Riesling - the 2002 and 2005 - with some antipasto accompaniments. The ‘02 was presenting slightly better, with bush honey, pine forest and pineapple pith aromatics fortified by the beginnings of fusel characters on the palate. Still fresh with an uplifting finish, this is an off-dry style and going through a transitional phase that will reward another five years in the cellar.
On to flight two. From beneath a dense cloud of complimentary sulphides emerges the 2005 Winstead Riesling bouquet; spring flowers and saccharine citrus, especially paw-paw. The palate sweetness is heavily restrained by bracing acidity that demands a worthy foodmatch (in our case crab on toast with saffron aioli was entirely worthy). Long, pure and clean finish. Superb.
Steve Lubiana’s 2006 Stefano Lubiana Riesling started with a subtle, lemon infused nose backed by mineral qualities. A fair dollop of lemon and lime rind palate fruit counters the reticent aromatics, augmented by zingy acidity that directs this down a drier path, honeyed finish notwithstanding.
Do rieslings brood? The 2006 Brook Eden Riesling does. Coax this little number and you may be lucky enough to discover sweet mandarin and ripe apple. Again, persisting in this off-dry style, the acid profile is broader in this case and not so tight. This leads to a more texturally generous finish - bordering astringent - that leaves plenty of flavour for the tongue to muse over.
I don’t know whether it’s a particular cooper, I don’t know whether it’s a particular wine style, but despite my aversion to heavily oaked chardonnays (and my pompous attitude towards a fickle public that prefers licking trees in their wines over sucking on tropical fruits), there is a character in the odd bottle that wins me over. At the onset of the third flight for the evening, the 2005 Freycinet Vineyard Chardonnay was such a wine. It’s sweet butterscotch one minute, then melting butter the next. Then there’s the fruit. Peach, rockmelon and a smorgasbord of fleshy stonefruits that quietly arouse on the nose before exploding to dangerous intensity on the palate. There’s none of that fat, leesy, flat and creamy texture either; this is all about sprightly acidity and juicy fruit-driven texture that leaves a felicitous imprint on the finish. A chardonnay full of flavour - and oak - that operate in an engaging relationship that can only benefit from time. Lots more time. Sensational.
The 2005 Brook Eden Chardonnay displayed cashew and nectarine that partner on a nutty, tending biscuity nose. Not so much a core of fruit, but melon fruits awash on the palate with acidity less obvious. Restrained and drinking well now, the acidity catches up on the paw-paw finish to end with tenacity.
In comparison, the 2006 Dalrymple Chardonnay smelled of rockmelon and honeydew, with a hint of vegetation. Oak plays second fiddle to the fruit, though the marriage isn’t as legitimate as the previous two chards. The acidity is racy and the palate fruit citrus, almost inclined in a riesling direction. The finish lacks oomph or showy character, though it is well balanced and agreeable.
The food match for these wines was a carpaccio of big-eye tuna with marinated mooli, grapefruit, honeydew melon, toasted pinenuts and citrus vinaigrette. Full of unique, interesting flavours and presented like one of my failed attempts at sushi sashimi, it matched the Dalrymple well though it may have proved more appropriate with the rieslings.
The last flight and much anticipated by this time of the evening saw two cabs rear their heads. Two very different cabs, borne of completely different heritage and style. The first was a 2004 Craigie Knowe Cab Sauv, that had a nose of blackberry, raspberry liquorice, maraschino cherry and coffee bean. Delightful nose, that evokes more character with every sniff. The fruit is gently wrapped into coarse, broadcast tannins that build on the finish without overwhelming. Medium bodied with a supportive undercurrent of acid, this cab needs a decade before revisiting. Poised to be memorable.
The dark, handsome, incredibly well-dressed 2000 Domaine A Cab Sauv saunters into the room, attracting admiring gazes from everyone. It starts with his nose. Small, concentrated, dark berry fruit with lots more happening; there’s mojo baby. When I taste this wine, I imagine that a large group of sexy, female, scantily clad, virginal microbes are having an epic pillow fight in the midst of Peter’s carefully nurtured grapes, such is the nature of the round, polished, waxed-edge mouthfeel. This is the epitome of seamless. Balanced is such a philistine, paltry word for the crafted aritisianship of this stasis blend. Am I waxing lyrical? You bet I am. Unequivocally Tasmania’s best cab, and one of the best from Australia full stop. 95 points.
Though people had their hands busy cradling these cab elixirs, time was found to gobble up the venison satays with blackcurrant and cassis compote. Simple, tasty, delicious. A milky sorbet with praline chocolate washed down with a 2005 Wellington Iced Riesling was the perfect way to finish an epic evening of Tasmanian fulfilment.
Stay tuned for the Tassie pinot noir write-up in a fortnight…
There is a cat amongst the pigeons. A sexy, sleek, sophisticated and surreptitious cat. The peace has been disturbed and people will be angry. Angry that such a premium and exceptional quality wine could appear on the market for less than $20. There’s a shiraz. There’s a cabernet. There’s a cat and some pigeons.
Both of these wines are full of 100% Barossa Valley estate grown nutritional goodness. The fruit is sourced from vineyards in Greenock, Tanunda, Marananga and Lyndoch by a winemaking partnership of Mark Jamieson and Peter Gajewski. Mark Jamieson - somewhat of a ghost winemaker - consults for a myriad of different producers in South Australia and spent time with Irvine (Australia’s merlot specialist). Peter Gajewski is ex Penfolds where he was a senior winemaker. Both men still supply fruit from their vineyards to Penfolds (Southcorp), but they now have the chance to isolate some special parcels for release under their own label.
The 2006 Cat Amongst The Pigeons “Nine Lives” Shiraz is opaque. Damn is it dark, with purple bubbles frothing at the meniscus as I pour a liberal glass. The 40% French oak input is hardly obtrusive (thanks to ageing in older barrels), in fact it’s barely apparent, with aromas of star anise, mocha, kirsch and blackberry gaining a foothold. The silky mouthfeel gently ushers in soft berry palate fruit that maintains an elegant demeanour before snowballing to a rich, gobsmacking, sweet tannin finish. With structure to burn thanks to complementary acid and mouth-paint tannins, this tank sample is indicative of future grandeur.
The 2006 Cat Amongst The Pigeons “Cat Walk” Cabernet is exactly that. Some cute, curvy pussy cat striding down the catwalk, full of charm and personality. Some Barossan cabernets can lose their way, especially when it comes to varietal identity, so it’s somewhat captivating to discover this piece of work boldly bucking the trend. Tobacco, tomato leaf, musk perfume and caramelised blackcurrants contribute to an uplifting bouquet. On the palate it’s fleshy - which I love - finishing warm and cuddly with one helluva taste-sensation finish and very, very good length. Slightly more forward than the shiraz, the Cat Walk is a cabernet with immediate appeal.
For the internationalist in me, this was always going to be a treat. Nine wines from the estate of Schafer-Frohlich, located in the Nahe Valley of Germany. Winemaking has been in the family for over two centuries and with the recent acquisition of additional vineyard sites, along with a strict low-yield policy, Schafer-Frohlich is set to challenge the greats of the region. They are particularly renowned for their sweet wines; notably the BA and TBA, though with these 2005 releases only three of the nine were of the sweeter style. Only 58% of their production is riesling.
Weisser Burgunder Trocken (Pinot Blanc)
Mineral, lychee, floral nose; one could mistake for muscat. Initial palate is fresh, but tends flat and warm. Finishes long, with tip-of-the-tongue spicyness.
Riesling Kabinett Trocken Bockenauer Felseneck
Dry apple, apricot kernel, musk and cranberry. Plenty of fruit concentration, well balanced acid, becoming slightly aggressive on the finish.
Riesling Spatlese Trocken Bockenauer Felseneck
Stinky sulphides initially; dirty drains and smelly swamp. Orange rind and nectarine salvage a degree of fruitiness. Acid is wavy and awkward; seems to rise and trough with regard to intensity. Hint of warmth on a spicy finish.
Weisser Burgunder Trocken “S” (Pinot Blanc)
Nashi, biscuit, hint of lavendar and lime. Lush texture. Excellent balance. Finishes full, with a late kick of concentration and spike of acidity. A very good wine.
Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg
Is this a Pyramid Valley Lebecca Riesling? Opens with boisterous sulphides (the pleasant and stinky kind), fading slowly to crunchy apple, herbage and a hint of strawberry. Sweeter than the previous wines, but still off-dry. Acid balance is perfectly judged. Finishes long and with a tang.
Riesling Halenberg Grosse-Gewachs
Backward nose; sulphides and not much else. Hint of tangerine and grapefruit. Pure and clean on the palate, but finish lacks acid support. Length is good, but the finish is abrupt. Disappointing.
Riesling Felsenberg Grosse-Gewachs
Lemon pulp, citrus rind, tangelo and passionfruit. Delicious nose. It’s all about the iron fist in the velvet glove on the palate; powerful core of concentration dutifully reprimanded by an elegant streak with round edges and superb linearity. The acid is well judged; fresh and lively. Excellent wine.
Riesling Spatlese Monzinger Halenberg
Very fruit nose - juicy peach and orange. Slight spritzig on the palate with happy sulphides. Stunning sugar-acid balance; not cloying at all. The finish is huge, as is the length. Wins a top three vote for sugar-acid balance alone. The good news? Only $36. The bad news? En primeur from last year with none left…
Riesling Auslese Bockenauer Felseneck
A taster next to me took a sip of this and said “now that’s a tickle on the nipple” when a male from across the table retorted with “if that’s the case, I’ll breastfeed til I’m 90!”. A wine that’s easy to love. Mango, fig, pineapple and other such tropical sensations on the nose. Excellent balance re sugar/acid, but I felt that the Spatlese had the real magic. Finishes generous with uplifting acid. Quality gear.
As an outspoken riesling extremist, this tasting was a real pleasure. Whilst admittedly only two of the lineup really pushed my buttons, it’s always nice to taste such a wonderful lineup of German whites.
Through Paul Bowater, a mutual friend of David and I, we were both driving to a small vineyard on a lifestyle block out in Springston, south of Christchurch. We had spoken to Ken Bryan on the phone, who with his wife Pam were the owners of this property on Bethels Road, having acquired it in early 2006. Ken reiterated their need for someone to help out with the vines; David and I giggling like schoolgirls at the exciting nature of such a prospect.
We arrive at Bethels Road, scout out the vineyard (acting super professional, of course), make some very techo comments as one does (within earshot of the land owners), then had a relaxed chat to Pam and Ken. We agreed to tend the vineyard and make the wine, as long as we went halves in the resultant product; assuming it would be drinkable. The terms were accepted and we embarked on an adventure that I will never forget. Our first vintage.
Ken passed away a fortnight ago, having finally lost his battle against cancer. He was very young, in high spirits and a gentle and very generous man based on the time I knew him which no doubt reflects on his lifetime character. The pinor noir and chardonnay from the Bethels Road vineyard will now hold an extra degree of sentimentality, which is/was drinkable, incidentally. My deepest sympathy goes out to Pam and the family.
When wine aficionados the world over discuss great wine regions and wines that are present in them, Canada would surely not register even a comment in such conversations. However, at the 2006 International Wine and Spirits Competition (I.W.S.C) in London, England, something extraordinary occurred; The Jackson-Triggs 2004 Grand Reserve Shiraz was the first North American wine to ever be awarded the Rosemount Estate Trophy for best Shiraz/Syrah.
To those of you reading this who have your finger on the pulse of the wine world, this is literally last years news. I am writing this as an introduction to a tasting note as I have through great effort been able to obtain 2 bottles of this rare and much sort after drop of inky deliciousness.
The wine is deep and majestic in the glass with a dark mauve meniscus and an intense, impenetrable core the colour of blackberry. The nose leaps out of the glass with dark cherry and blackbuoy peach, white pepper and lashings of intence oak.
The initial nose gives way to a wonderful visceral aroma, with ample ripe berries of black and blue. There is also still the prodigious wood spice from the apparent generous oak usage and cracked dusty pepper in the background.
My initial impression of the palate was that it was a little sharp and not quite in balance yet. I let the wine sit in the decanter for a while and was duly rewarded for my patience, the wine was shy and was always showing young but it definitely changed over time. It went from being slightly on the warm side with a brooding power and showing a lot of wood that hid the fruit, to opening up into a plethora of nuance and flavour; fresh blackberry and raspberry with savory black tea and soft leather, mocha and chocolate. The wine had a large powerful tannic grip without being harsh. The finish that followed as the tannins subsided was lingering and clean with a lovely savory feel that left me salivating and looking for another swallow.
My overall impressions were that this wine is drinking well now, given some breathing space, but I can’t wait to open the next bottle in 5-7 years when I think it will peak, and truly be magnificent.