Vinoculation

Through Paul Bowater, a mutual friend of David and I, we were both driving to a small vineyard on a lifestyle block out in Springston, south of Christchurch. We had spoken to Ken Bryan on the phone, who with his wife Pam were the owners of this property on Bethels Road, having acquired it in early 2006. Ken reiterated their need for someone to help out with the vines; David and I giggling like schoolgirls at the exciting nature of such a prospect.

 We arrive at Bethels Road, scout out the vineyard (acting super professional, of course), make some very techo comments as one does (within earshot of the land owners), then had a relaxed chat to Pam and Ken. We agreed to tend the vineyard and make the wine, as long as we went halves in the resultant product; assuming it would be drinkable. The terms were accepted and we embarked on an adventure that I will never forget. Our first vintage.

Ken passed away a fortnight ago, having finally lost his battle against cancer. He was very young, in high spirits and a gentle and very generous man based on the time I knew him which no doubt reflects on his lifetime character. The pinor noir and chardonnay from the Bethels Road vineyard will now hold an extra degree of sentimentality, which is/was drinkable, incidentally. My deepest sympathy goes out to Pam and the family. 

When wine aficionados the world over discuss great wine regions and wines that are present in them, Canada would surely not register even a comment in such conversations. However, at the 2006 International Wine and Spirits Competition (I.W.S.C) in London, England, something extraordinary occurred; The Jackson-Triggs 2004 Grand Reserve Shiraz was the first North American wine to ever be awarded the Rosemount Estate Trophy for best Shiraz/Syrah.

To those of you reading this who have your finger on the pulse of the wine world, this is literally last years news. I am writing this as an introduction to a tasting note as I have through great effort been able to obtain 2 bottles of this rare and much sort after drop of inky deliciousness.

The wine is deep and majestic in the glass with a dark mauve meniscus and an intense, impenetrable core the colour of blackberry. The nose leaps out of the glass with dark cherry and blackbuoy peach, white pepper and lashings of intence oak.

The initial nose gives way to a wonderful visceral aroma, with ample ripe berries of black and blue. There is also still the prodigious wood spice from the apparent generous oak usage and cracked dusty pepper in the background.

My initial impression of the palate was that it was a little sharp and not quite in balance yet. I let the wine sit in the decanter for a while and was duly rewarded for my patience, the wine was shy and was always showing young but it definitely changed over time. It went from being slightly on the warm side with a brooding power and showing a lot of wood that hid the fruit, to opening up into a plethora of nuance and flavour; fresh blackberry and raspberry with savory black tea and soft leather, mocha and chocolate. The wine had a large powerful tannic grip without being harsh. The finish that followed as the tannins subsided was lingering and clean with a lovely savory feel that left me salivating and looking for another swallow.

My overall impressions were that this wine is drinking well now, given some breathing space, but I can’t wait to open the next bottle in 5-7 years when I think it will peak, and truly be magnificent.