Vinoculation

For the internationalist in me, this was always going to be a treat. Nine wines from the estate of Schafer-Frohlich, located in the Nahe Valley of Germany. Winemaking has been in the family for over two centuries and with the recent acquisition of additional vineyard sites, along with a strict low-yield policy, Schafer-Frohlich is set to challenge the greats of the region. They are particularly renowned for their sweet wines; notably the BA and TBA, though with these 2005 releases only three of the nine were of the sweeter style. Only 58% of their production is riesling.

Weisser Burgunder Trocken (Pinot Blanc)

Mineral, lychee, floral nose; one could mistake for muscat. Initial palate is fresh, but tends flat and warm. Finishes long, with tip-of-the-tongue spicyness.

Riesling Kabinett Trocken Bockenauer Felseneck

Dry apple, apricot kernel, musk and cranberry. Plenty of fruit concentration, well balanced acid, becoming slightly aggressive on the finish.

Riesling Spatlese Trocken Bockenauer Felseneck

Stinky sulphides initially; dirty drains and smelly swamp. Orange rind and nectarine salvage a degree of fruitiness. Acid is wavy and awkward; seems to rise and trough with regard to intensity. Hint of warmth on a spicy finish.

Weisser Burgunder Trocken “S” (Pinot Blanc)

Nashi, biscuit, hint of lavendar and lime. Lush texture. Excellent balance. Finishes full, with a late kick of concentration and spike of acidity. A very good wine.

Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg

Is this a Pyramid Valley Lebecca Riesling? Opens with boisterous sulphides (the pleasant and stinky kind), fading slowly to crunchy apple, herbage and a hint of strawberry. Sweeter than the previous wines, but still off-dry. Acid balance is perfectly judged. Finishes long and with a tang.

Riesling Halenberg Grosse-Gewachs

Backward nose; sulphides and not much else. Hint of tangerine and grapefruit. Pure and clean on the palate, but finish lacks acid support. Length is good, but the finish is abrupt. Disappointing.

Riesling Felsenberg Grosse-Gewachs

Lemon pulp, citrus rind, tangelo and passionfruit. Delicious nose. It’s all about the iron fist in the velvet glove on the palate; powerful core of concentration dutifully reprimanded by an elegant streak with round edges and superb linearity. The acid is well judged; fresh and lively. Excellent wine.

Riesling Spatlese Monzinger Halenberg

Very fruit nose - juicy peach and orange. Slight spritzig on the palate with happy sulphides. Stunning sugar-acid balance; not cloying at all. The finish is huge, as is the length. Wins a top three vote for sugar-acid balance alone. The good news? Only $36. The bad news? En primeur from last year with none left… 

Riesling Auslese Bockenauer Felseneck

A taster next to me took a sip of this and said “now that’s a tickle on the nipple” when a male from across the table retorted with “if that’s the case, I’ll breastfeed til I’m 90!”. A wine that’s easy to love. Mango, fig, pineapple and other such tropical sensations on the nose. Excellent balance re sugar/acid, but I felt that the Spatlese had the real magic. Finishes generous with uplifting acid. Quality gear.

As an outspoken riesling extremist, this tasting was a real pleasure. Whilst admittedly only two of the lineup really pushed my buttons, it’s always nice to taste such a wonderful lineup of German whites.