2004 Sacred Hill Whitecliff Pinot Noir
Let me start by saying how fond I am of Sacred Hill and Tony Bish. Their reserve wines are nothing short of spectacular, with incredible consistency from year to year. The Deerstalkers Syrah is poised for greatness. Nevertheless, I have a Sacred Hill Whitecliff Pinot Noir in front of me (as to how it ended up in my cellar, I have no idea), so let’s talk about this pinot.
A strawberry, candied, mushroom nose adorns a light-coloured pinot; almost a dark blush. In the mouth, the wine lacks texture, it is very lightweight and has no presence whatsoever. Insipid would be an apt descriptor. The palate is awash with sweet, strawberry flavours that become reminscent of cordial on the unsubstantial, barely perceptible tannin finish. There is an element of tartness that comes through on the finish to counterpoint the sweetness, though neither of these characters gel and only add to the wine’s embarrassing structure.
A scathing tasting note, I’ll admit, but if it helps the cause to abolish these lower tier brands from regions that just cannot grow pinot (I’m assuming this has come from Hawke’s Bay, though the bottle and website provide no indication), then I’ll consider it a job well done. Admittedly, this is a cheap pinot directed at a certain market of drinkers - people that will probably actually enjoy it - but if you’re reading this website and my tasting notes, I’ll assume that you’d like me to maintain an unbiased approach full of integrity and outspoken honesty. Screw it, that’s what I’ll do irrespective.