Vinoculation

We returned to the old haunt of Cousinns restaurant on Tuesday night for one of the Dirty Dozen dinners come Christchurch Offline. Andrew (known by his forum alias “Wizz”) had come over from Brisbane with Mrs Wizz for a conference, presenting a very valid excuse for an evening full of mass wine consumption. There was a big turnout too, with fifteen of us in total (and nice to see a good mix of guys and gals). It’s worth noting that despite my enjoyment of the salmon cakes and duck confit main, the presentation lacked its usual flair and others weren’t entirely happy with their meals. Me thinks this is due to a change in chef, with the previous European bloke now gone and replaced by a young apprentice fresh out of the Polytechnic Institute.

No tasting notes were taken, as is fast becoming tradition, so recollections and impressions will have to suffice. Note that this list is by no means full and I will have to rely upon Andrew’s scriptures (in good time) to provide a full wine-itemised account of the evening.

1996 Stoneleigh Riesling
A gorgeous aged riesling, minus the kero. Acid profile still has remnants of its youthful skeleton, leaning me towards Australia in the Options Game. Long finish and a delightful way to start.

1996 J. L. Wolf Wachenheimer Koningswingert Halb Trocken Kabinett
Andrew basically picked this wine blind. The wine started out closed and dumb, but blossomed into a complex riesling with sulphur/mineral components and lots of green citrus character on the palate. The flavour pinpricked its way across the tongue. Interesting and very enjoyable.

2006 Johanneshof Gewurztraminer 
The icon NZ gewurz. These wines age exceptionally and the ‘03/’04 imitate their Alsacian brethren scarily well. This is looking much better than it did on release (when the acid was MIA), but still needs time. Warmth is evident on the palate, without the acid for true Johanneshof longevity, though the wine still maintains a lush texture.

2002 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay
Wine of the night. This was exceptional. It had lots of seasoned, fine-grained, tactile French oak on the nose and palate, but there was lots of everything else to counterpoint this. Fruit to boot, judicious acid balance, the palate not fat but precise and fine. Gorgeous. Drink with food (salmon cakes were perfect), or wait another 2-5 years.

2002 Savaterre Chardonnay
A very different wine to the Neudorf. This had less overt oak and went down the textural, malo and lees stirring spectrum instead. Great to ponder on after the Neudorf; without food, just by itself. Had subtle butter components and heaps of flavour. Very well crafted and a long finish. Tasty. Very tasty.

1998 Morris (?) Durif
My first impressions were Zinfandel. My second impressions were Petit Syrah. Pity I didn’t voice that second impression. Despite the age, this was still a big wine, with heaps of sweet, confected, raisin-like characters and some heat on the palate. The nose was actually quite enjoyable, with some interesting complexity despite the primary fruit. Good weight on the palate, stung by the hint of alcohol. Wrong time of night to have this wine too.

2003 Coney Pizzicato Pinot Noir
Corked.

2002 Maestro Sangiovese Cabernet
This was Zollie being a tricky bastard. I think I failed in every option on this one. It had some rustic, old world qualities to it (no doubt thanks to the Sangiovese and NSW regionality) and appeared older than it was. Savoury and well structured. Good curio value.

2000 Neudorf Moutere Pinot Noir
This smelt old. Really old. Had pinot written all over it, with stalky, briary, cherry fruit on the nose. The primary fruit had fallen away on the palate, leaving a shell of interesting complexities that were being scoured by sour acid. The tannins were dry and quite obvious. Interesting wine, but having had it before, I don’t think it was a representative bottle. In fact, I know it wasn’t.

1995 Stonecroft Ruhanui
My second bottle in three days. An excellent example of an aged Hawkes Bay red drinking at its peak. An unusual mix of cabernet, merlot and syrah that seems to work well. Secondary characters dominate, with tired fruit and leather. Tannins resolved but still with a degree of grit.

2006 Passage Rock Syrah
I can’t even remember trying this, but I have had it before. Yet to have a Waiheke wine I like. This is bold, warm, meaty and oaky. If you like that, jump on in.

2001 Castagna Genesis Syrah
The sirens were wailing on this one with the Brett Police called to the party. I’m normally pretty tolerant of low-level Brett, but the bandaid characters did tend to blossom the longer this was in the glass. Initially, there were some lovely pine, smoked meat, blackberry and leather characters. Very elegant on the palate, still underpinned by fresh acid. Short-to-moderate length on the finish. Bummer about the Brett.

2005 Dry River Late Harvest Riesling
I think this was mildly corked, based on previous bottles, but still drunk with reckless abandon by most at the table. Completely overpowered by the rich desserts, this was very delicate and almost tending kabinett in style. Very young, very fresh and quite austere. Needs heaps more time. Heaps more.