842m altitude is a long way up. And worth the climb by the looks.
This is one of the Tumbarumba wines from the McWilliams stable. Cool climate winemaking done very nicely.
Hazelnut and cream nose. The palate entry is a lick of spritzy racy lemon zest at first, and the next impression is texture - lush. Not fat and blowsy – lush and layered. It carries nuts, oyster shell, sea spray. Then the lemony zing kicks back in to introduce a composed mix of citrus fruits and peach across the middle of the tongue as the wine glides down. Persistent elegant finish, with citrusy acids perfectly balancing the fruit weight and texture.
This really is a complete, delicious wine of subtlety and finesse thats been allowed to express itself and has only been touched by oak. Chablis fans, look out for this.
I’ve often thought about what it would be like to write a fictional story about wine. Thirty years ago, Alan Brady’s “Pinot Central” would have been just that. Central Otago, 1980 – a region best known for its spectacular landscape, winter skiing and seasonal fruit. With just a couple rogue vines in backyards, the region had no history of grapegrowing and all the experts said it couldn’t be done. But Alan Brady, a journalist from Dunedin, had set his sights on a small plot of land in Gibbston (a region nobody had ever heard of) and, wanting to try something different and be a bit innovative, planted grapes.
Pinot Central is Alan’s intimate, personal story about his journey from planting some of the earliest vines in Central Otago to its evolution and establishment as one of the world’s premiere regions for pinot noir. Whether you’re a wine enthusiast or someone who just appreciates good literature, it’s a spellbinding book – superbly illustrated – that lures the reader into the exciting, nerve-racking, heart-breaking moments of Alan’s thirty year tenure as a winemaker, grapegrower and ambassador for Central Otago.
For me, it’s an inspiration. So full of reckless passion and desire, concealed within humble and often poetic prose. A genuine joy to read.
2008 Wild Irishman Bannockburn Pinot Noir
The spicy elements are the signature of this wine, and from my previous experience, Alan’s fingerprint across his whole portfolio of Wild Irishman wines. As a winegrower, I sit back pensively and wonder about picking dates, use of whole bunches and the oak component, but it’s far easier to simply kick back and revel in the sweet and savoury cat-and-mouse game going on aromatically.
True complexity and intrigue, in the form of briar, roses, marzipan, cloves and cherries. The body is moderate – as pinot noir should be – with the slight prickliness of youthful acidity buoying a layered palate that is never dense, nor heavy. The flavours still speak volumes of Bannockburn; juicy, sweet, cherry fruit, but flecked in a ripeness that doesn’t have to mean black-spectrum or weight. The tannins are initially sweet, tending nuttier on the finish, leaving a pleasing hint of astringency that lends itself to a suitable food match.
At 13.5%, the alcohol is well in check for this part of the world and, coupled with the characters mentioned, makes this wine stand out as something a bit unique for Central Otago. I really enjoyed it. Only 150 cases made.
Gnrr..Genaaaar..Grschhhh.
I cant even say it.
But I’m drinking it. Mclaren Vale, 15.5%, One of the new faces who is part of the natural wine movement in Australia. All things I would rail against for different reasons. But a Friday night with Sausages and TV - its perfect. Tar, rosepetal, musk sticks, blackberry jam, cherry liqueur. Very lifted, from the alcohol I suspect. Damn I havent even tasted it yet, and a lot of the smells are sweet, happy things that somehow take me back to being 4 years old.
The front palate doesn’t scream 15.5% but the undercurrent of alcohol is there below a musky rosepetal entry, menthol, tar, redcurrant, blackcurrant and a bit of licorice, jubey lift.
Grenache it is. Tasty it is. Alcohol you must tame, and then Jedi you will become young Paduan.
In the meantime, my lightsaber is glowing red.
Find. Buy. Drink.