Its ANZAC day. That special day where Aussies and Kiwis share the honouring of those who fought for our freedom. My dad was part of that, he flew in New Guinea in World War 2. There’s a small tradition in our house thats part of the honouring of my dads small part on the legacy that is ANZAC, and its to drink something traditionally Australian to respect the fallen today. This year, its a bottle of that quintessential Australian blend - Cabernet Shiraz.
The 2000 Majella Mallea is still dark in colour, despite its 11 years of age. Some early signs of bricking, but they’re only early.
It’s the Cabernet component that rises up to greet you first – blackberry, minted peas, menthol blown on the breath of a rich fruited lift. Some black olive is close behind, hinting of the shiraz in the blend.
The palate is an evolving thing. It starts out being surprisingly fresh and vibrant if a little angular and disjointed. Fruit, a gap, and then tannins. Perhaps a manifestation of the cabernet hole. The shiraz rises up to meet this, and the black olive component emerges again, completing the wine.
There’s a lovely inky tarry element to this which reflects the flagship status this wine has. The tannins are all in the right place, the acids are on the high side, and no doubt that has helped the wine lok youthful at this stage of its life. And its life is far from over.
A good interpretation of the Aussie classic, drunk on that classic day. Anzac Day, 2011.
They shall not grow old, as we that are left grow old: Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun, and in the morning We will remember them. Lest we forget.
Canadian Chardonnay. About 99% of the wine drinking world are looking at those two words and thinking WTF? I would be too if I wasn’t given a heads up from Max that Dave has done some of his best work here. Once again, I’m going to step around any accusations of reviewing a wine that I’m not truly and auditably at arms length from. Mainly cos I don’t care. This is tasty juice, and the world deserves to know.
Its more golden to look at than many. Meh, Cant drink colours. Not the only wine that hasn’t been water pale in its youth.
Nose in glass time. Ooh, creamy roasted nuts, with a waft of VA and also some EA to lift this out of the glass. But this is just the entrée, as this tastes seriously good. Its perfectly weighted, and shows off grapefruit, ripe honeydew, and some gentle apricot tones. It carries across the palate beautifully, and closes out with nuances of green pineapple in the tingly lemon lime acids. The fruit is beautifully dense and carries on to impressive length.
This is mouthcoating and complete, and seriously tasty. New world in its style with perhaps a nod to Chablis. Worth seeking out if you can get it,
cheers
Andrew
I’ve never been very sure of Canadian Icewine. Inniskillin makes its way to Australia, and I’ve had the 04 Henry of Pelham Vidal and 05 Jackson Triggs Riesling once each. They are confronting beasts, sometimes with to much of everything.
Tantalus is home to Dave Patterson, one of my partners in Auburn. He very kindly brought a mixed dozen of Tantalus product into Australia for me in February, as they are just unavailable here.
I thought twice about reviewing this in public. Not for doubts about quality, but occasionally people get accused of pumping up particular wines. but seeing as the total comments in the whole Vinoculation site number less than 10 I’m going to step out here and bear all your daggers.
First things first - you have to get past an enormous hit of nailpolish remover to get to this wine. This is one of the biggest ethyl acetate levels I’ve ever seen. Confronting stuff - the bottle was then quarantined to see if the EA blows off.
After 24 hours it has substantially gone. Underneath, this one has some beautiful sweet candied tropical fruits, and its searingly intense. Paw paw, mandarin, peach, passionfruit. This is so intense it is almost hot in the mouth, and the finish goes on for an age. This will take on the sweetest of desserts, and in fact needs something seriously sweet to match it.
Picked at 49 Brix (incredibly ripe!) at -12 degrees in December 2009, this leads to 9.8% alcohol, over 300g/l, and I’m told this has 15g/l of titratable acidity. This is bursting with everything, and is just in balance.
I suspect this well age for a long long time. So don’t be in a hurry.
Cheers
If you’re looking for fruity, sundrenched ripe chardonnay - then warning - some viewers may find the the following note disturbing.
Garibaldi Farm is near Ballarat in central western Victoria. Cold. All the time. Brrrr. This is a really small make of about 100 dozen, and the back label says this was one of the warmest growing seasons on record. If thats the case I wonder how the hell they get this ripe in a cold year!
This is all about structure and savoury tastes and smells. In amongst all this restraint there is the fruit. Ever peeled the layers of an onion? That’s where you’re at. Lift away the creamy cashew to get to the almond meal, then find some nutty oak, and underneath that is the core. It’s not loud and brash, but it speaks clear and pure with its coiled up citrussy power. Its taken 5 years to get to this point, who knows how long it will take to fully unfurl. Lovely - and in the scheme of things $35 is very good value.
If Chablis is your style of chardonnay, seek this out.